I have a question on the 580b case, The enine is a 188 and has the im thinking power shuttle, well the starter has a little bolt on the housing between the starter sylinoid, and starter motor, this bolt keeps leaking fluid around it, is this an adjustment bolt? can it be removed and an o-ring put on it to keep it from leaking? I guess a pic would help also ill try to get one Thanks Mike
Here Is The Bolt
That's the pivot bolt for the starter drive Mikey1, shouldn't be any oil in the area of that pivot bolt. Remove the drain plug on bottom of converter housing and see if oil comes out and how much.
thanks willie I hope that is not a bad thing ill check that tomarrow
Well, it can be a bad thing. The torque converter housing should be dry, but you could have rear crank shaft seal leaking, or problem with converter causing oil to fill housing if the bottom drain plug is fitted. If you do drain some oil out of housing, leave plug out, operate machine and see how much it leaks. If it's only a drip here and there, I'd leave the plug out and carry on, not worth splitting the tractor over a drip.
Mikey, seems I was incorrect in my response. From what I can tell, seems there is likely supposed to be oil inside the converter housing. If that's the case, your machine should use an oil sealed starter. If you're leaking oil from that starter drive pivot bolt, likely it's not a sealed starter or the seal on starter drive has failed, pull starter and have that issue addressed. BTW, you might want to view this thread for more info, machine similar to yours: !
Thanks Willie it is a sealed starter looking at it and i will have to have it fixed, when it gets warm it can make a good puddle. I have been reading that one too I thank you all for sharing your experience and knowledge with us newbies
There are two seals in the diesel starter on these tractors. I have had to replace one due to it leaking on mine. It is very strange to see hydraulic oil leaking from a starter... Dave
I also have a 580B and need some info concerning transmission fluid capacity and differental fluid and power shuttle info,,the kind of fluid best for the model and the amount needed. there are three different areas these fluids can go and i am coming to a complete wall as to where and what anyone that can help please reply... thanks James. it is a 1978 Case 580b Construction King,
Here is the end of a thread that discusses the shuttle and transaxle oils for these tractors... Dave
Hey Mikey! Did you ever figure out why the fluid is coming out of the starter? Mine is doing the same thing and I really need it fixed. Thanks.
The 580B definately has a "wet" starter. One that I contemplated buying had the wrong starter on it, and hydraulic fluid literaly ran out of the starter.
It actually stopped leaking, I dont know if its low on fluid or just quit, I havent touched the old girl in about 3 weeks, been working too much, and a week in Mich with the inlaws, havent been on much. Let us know what fixes it please
I wish mine would stop! I had the starter resealed, but it keeps spewing out. It seems like I read somewhere there were screens in the trans that will get clogged and cause this problem. I just don't know.
Well, does anyone have any ideas on the starter leak? My hoe is still spewing fluid, and I am getting desperate! Thanks in advance.
your best bet is to call a mechanic and have them look it up and see what they say about it, I cant believe that mine has not leaked since!! it may be a gasket issue
Got my starter rebuilt n fluid coming out.. any ideas?? Bout 70 580b , have read a lot on here cause have several issues, this is an awesome group... carpenter with his first toy... thanks..
The rebuider either left a gasket out or damaged one of them. Take it back to him and explain where the leak is. You did get your original starter back didn't you ? Maybe he exchanged yours for one he had in his inventory.
Yes got old one back, thanks I've heard there suppose b fluid in them n heard the opposite, and from what I've read on here it may be bigger problem but hope not .. thanks for your time
As previously mentioned in this thread, no oil should be in the starter. Converter housing , yes.
Ok thanks.. first chance get will take back .. not had b long but seems like there is always something to do ..
Get used to that. Great toys but they like attention.
She's had all my attention for bout month n half since I got it .after reading more on here than I've read since high school I've come to conclusion that mine has bout every problem I seen on here plus couple. Lol. I will post pics n what I've done so far soon as my kids show me how.. or when it will let me. Working on getting book but was wondering if there place find all name of parts. Thanks n advance. Lost carpenter
Get a parts breakdown as well as the service manual then you'll be in good shape
You will find all the parts and numbers here -----> http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::model_find Type in 580b and then hit the search button. Two models will come up. Pick the one you have. Here is a link to the 631 page service manual ------> http://files.minnpar.com/partbooks/... MANUAL/Case 580CK Model B Service Manual.pdf
Thanks
Radiator again... when first got b took radiator off n they put n vat for couple days cause was lil stopped up cause fluid was not circulating good.. n checked thermostat n it opened up on stove before water boil , did good for while ( haven't worked a lot with it maybe hour two here there) noticed small hole on inside toward motor n put bout half bottle of new stop leak . Seems even before then had fluid coming out overflow while warming up now after bout 15 minutes she blowing fluid pretty good out hole( really small) n overflow .. feels like not circulating.. should I replace thermostat n put stop leak to it again or take radiator off n get it patched?? Put 50/50 in it after got radiator back first time ... need some wisdom before aunt B gets best of me .. thanks
Also can u upload pics from phone on here ?
Grady , tinkerer , any idea?? Need get her back to Mayberry before rain gets here..
I do not and would not use stop-leak. Take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and repaired properly. It is a sad sight to see a motor destroyed from overheating.
Thanks tinkerer, guy at napa said it b ok , when I was n there getting filters for it .. I've never been fan of it . I will take it back to shop n starter at same time cause they did both of them.. thanks for your help.. I need shoot dale order n stay out that place.. haha
Another question.. when I got it someone had put cuppling on metal line n it has blew off several times . The ends are not flared on either side. Do u think that would fix the problem ?
Think I read they're supposed to be a filter in this does anyone have the number think it's a 70 model 580 BCK and the motors a 188 thanks
Your filter is a (A51463) case p/n.
Ok thanks sheepfoot,that will go on my order list ..
You will need to take one or both nuts off of that coupling and post a photo of the coupling. it could be a flared fitting or one the requires a ferrule welded to the tube. Could be either.
Ok thanks will get it
Here's pic of her.. I know she ain't much look at but got pretty good deal in it n can use her for work also.. and long as I can keep it running I believe it will serve it purpose . Can't believe the power these ol machines have. Surprised me...
Nice old machine there phil4pres. I ran the 580's of that vintage back in the early 70's. Don't think yours is as the decals say though. You have the 580 CK there I think......the 580B's were the next in line after the 580 CK that is shown in the picture........likely someone labeled it incorrectly. If I remember correctly the 580 CK was rated at about 45 hp.
Yeah looks like it been repainted before at tool rental company they might've just stuck the stickers on the front not really sure
Thanks metalman55 , front bucket seems really big on it ( good thing) and the boom on the back seems really big for this size of tractor , looks to big . Guess that's why my frame was broke into when I got it , inside right rear tire was broke slap into n some fine citizen tried to weld back without plateing it anywhere. Broke right beside where arm for hoe bolts on frame. So me n friend cleaned up n broke out my grandpaws old cracker box( hadn't been used in prob 15 yrs since before he past) n still had old rod in it where he was welding with it. That ol cracker box burn just as good as any new one..
Only thing I could come up with was piece I beam. That would hold top n side n make more sturdy.. I know prob not right thing use but it worked for me .plus u have little room on inside with other bar running up beside it.. still thinking bout cutting top off but I think it only makes it stronger.. also those nuts u see n pic ( new one ) if u ever have take those off start soaking bout week ahead time.. 3 hrs later broke 2 ft pipe wrench, bloody knucks n several choice words I ended up taking hammer n chisel n cutting it into..
Guy who rebuilt starter said he didn't know where get gasket but wants me bring to him so he look at it . Any idea where find one if he can't
And if it is not the original starter is there anyway to put a gasket to keep it from leaking??
Juskatla here is pic was talking bout ..
Full oil changes flush and filters in order judging from the look of the oil in the rear end. The tube that we were discussing would have been located up in the right hand corner of the transmission. In the picture, it looks like some goop has been applied to that area, It may be OK but make sure its sealed to prevent fluid transfer between the shuttle and the gear box. High level in the rear end would contribute to leaking seals and brake contamination. In your picture, the level in the rear end looks too high. Here is the picture of the tube on my machine before I replaced the cap and clamp. I found bits of both the plastic cap and the spring steel clamp spread throughout the transmission, including in the lube passageways around the sides of the castings.
Another thing you should be aware of is that the transmission gearbox and the rear end share a common oil and the passages in the bottom of the casting between the two allow the levels to equalize between the two. Looks like yours may be plugged up if the gear box is empty and the rear end is full. Shuttle is completely separate and uses different fluid, so don't be tempted to use the same in all.
Ok thanks jusk , never seen one on here caped off like that before, had me worried..will drain n see what n bottom of them n change fluid n filter n check all gears but from top look n good shape.. but never know.. does seem whatever they plugged with holding pretty good..rear box was little over full , addsome other day to both them cause felt like every time put n reverse would make whining sound like fluid was low .. n use 80/90 tch for rear ended n gear box ??thanks for your time taking a lot stuff back off it again n hopefully won't have do it for while.. but everybody needs practice .. lol
Be cautious about overfilling the transmission and differential case. Overfilling can lead to seal leaks and in the rear, oiled brakes. The Operators Instruction Manual for the Case 480/580 Series Construction King Wheel Tractors show the quantity for both trans and rear end as using 17 quarts of SAE - 90W multi purpose gear oil. Today a quality gear oil would meet or exceed that spec. The torque tube with shuttle or hydraulic reservoir calls for 16 quarts of TCH. Today, that can be replaced with Hytran Ulltra or similar. If you decide on something less expensive, make sure the specs are the same. It has been recommended on here not to use regular hydraulic oil in the power shuttle torque tube. On mine, I chose to stay with Hytran Ultra once TCH was no longer available and have not had issues with the shuttle due to oil. Other problems that I fixed were not oil related. The Service Manual and the Parts Catalogue are invaluable to help with repairs and understanding how each piece works. I have both and the Operators Instruction Manual for both the tractor and the Loader Backhoe. If you don't have access to manuals and need specific portions, I will try to post them up for you and to benefit anyone else working on the same issue now or in the future. Pictures are always good.
Thanks jusk , like I was telling pumpguy other day I been building n remodeling for bout 20 yrs for myself , n never found group like yaw that take time to help ( the next person out ) like yaw do .. it is something... and I understand on overfilling, when I got it clutch( or left petal) wouldn't come all way back up n sprayed lil wd40 on it n worked it week or so n it come all way back up without having hook foot on it n brakes were not there when first started using it but they seem work a lot better now .. don't know why but figured from machine setting awhile .. the last couple weeks noticed left rear wheel damp on inside, prob from over filling but brakes grab still n will lock up n second gear ..
Also when I got her had several issues with brackets hold bucket on boom .. found much cheaper do it yourself than buy even used one ,cut bent rails off sides n form them to bottom n tack n weld them up ( with cracker box)..but 2 other that angel back. Boom where bad well one was egg shaped n look for 2 weeks try find something fit and machine shop was wanting 250 just round whole back out .. found collars at local place n town that would nearly fit right n .. with lil work they slide n .. tack them n pin slid right n with lil work .. got big one n pic just in case had weld to outside but didn't need it but put 2 smaller ones n hole .. n all 3 of them cost me a whole $11.00 ..
The oil on the rear wheel could be a leaking seal at the outer end of the axle housing. There should be a grease nipple located just inside the end of the axle and it lubes the bearing. If the seal is leaking, you will get some drip like you show in your picture. Other than the drips and stain, its not likely a real problem since it is all slow turning. You could fix it when you get all the other issues done or wait 20 yrs like I did. At the inner end of that axle tube, where it connects to the rear end casting, there is also another bearing and seal. If that seal is leaking, eventually you will have gear oil at the outer end. If the rear end case is overfull of oil, it will aggravate the problem. When I pulled mine all apart, I found the inner seal was leaking a little and a pool of gear oil in the bottom of the axle tube. I pulled both axles, inspected the bearings and replace both the inner and outer seals along with the large O ring on both sides. In order to replace the outer seal, you have to pull the bearing off the axle. I posted pictures of my home made 4 foot long puller and the seal installation plates I made form a suggestion posted by Melben on here. Worked slick. While it was apart, I cleaned all the mating surfaces and flushed the axle tube out to get the grease and gear oil before painting.
Was worried bout rear wheel since seen so many brake problems on here , just hope it not real bad .. when I get fluids changed m put top back on casings do I need use something like blue glue on them or something else help keep water out ? Do u think b good idea go ahead n drill plug n bottom so get to screen n clean it.. jusk inside your gearbox is cleaner than my whole setup .. lol
Clean is good. I did degrease and power wash mine a few times before beginning the dismantle. I still found dirt and grease in behind bits and eventually won that battle. The gear cases, once open will need to have the old gaskets removed and with the covers off, flush them out. A couple of sweeps with one of those magnets with a telescopic extension will pick up most of the bits you didn't flush out. I used diesel fuel but solvent or other similar products will work. You will probably find a layer of emulsified lube oil from the water in the oil coating the bottom. A brush and a flush will get you to look like the picture I posted. I used a 5 gal bucket under the drains and let its settle out before transferring the clean diesel into another bucket for another flush. I didn't drill the drain hole in the shuttle case as my screen was not plugged and I did a complete tear down with all new gaskets. I would suggest that if you can't see the screen, its a good idea to drill the access. If you are taking it apart anyway, wait until you see what is in the bottom of the case and then decide. With the plug below the pickup screen, its would be easy to clean. For your top covers, I would scrape off all the old gasket material and get a couple of new ones. Use a good brand gasket sealer and you won't have water issues. Silicone can be a problem if any of it ends up inside the shuttle case as a bit coming off will plug the oil channels. I tend to stay away from it in this type of application. I'm sure lots of people will tell you it would be fine but I've seen pictures of the pickup screen and some of the junk blocking it was old gasket and silicone gasket cement. The brakes are not on the wheel axles on these tractors, so that small leak would not be an issue for now. The seal will eventually need to be replaced. Two actually, one at each end. The brakes however, are located on the outboard side of the differential shaft, ahead of the rear axles. There is a seal and O ring as part of that assembly that will leak and oil your brakes. Its a bit of a procedure to change the seal and O ring on each side but that is best left for another post after you have researched other threads on here for what to check and how to proceed. If the brakes are oiled, you will need to do the seal and O ring or all the work will be wasted in short time. Don't overfill the oil as the 17qts will get you a level around the middle of the axle, which is good for bearing and gear lubrication,
Thanks jusk , u make sound easy .. I should have took pressure washer to it cause a lot of stuff on it now is mostly from lines blowing , especially that short big one n pic on bottom of loader control, just got bucket put back together n pins tacked on it was gonna try see if everything thing worked and boom !! I was turned around digging n it blowed ( felt like elephant j##ked off on me ) just glad I was turned around and not setting forward. But with my shorts pocket n boots filled was not good feeling.. I will try and drain and see what I can find n bottom today.. thanks for all info cause I'm green horn on this big yellow monster..
Just lil black stuff n bottom ( so far )
Flush that out a couple of times and you should be OK. Notice the rust on the diff and side gears from the water in the oil. Once good clean gear lube goes back in, you should be OK. Another change would be in order once you put some hours on it. I've certainly seen a lot worse over the years. My old tractor had an easy life after the first couple of years, so wasn't quite as beaten as some of the ones I've seen on here. At least these are easy to work on for us amateurs.
heres bout all found n back 2 compartments, really fine stuff with one piece on top have flushed it 3 times ..
Ya jusk I was thinking the rust from water but was not sure..thanks for awnser.. and I'm ready put hrs on it !!! My brother just took radiator n starter back shop n one off dump truck I got with Backhoe deal .. ain't purdy but long is it does its job ..( must b south thing ). Haha thanks for reply wouldn't have done half it without good advice from this place ..
Sounds like dumb question but that right stuff . Lol
Drained front n only bout gallon or so came out but back casing hasn't moved... drill ??
When you say front, is that the torque tube where the power shuttle and torque convertor are located? In one picture you posted, I saw that you had the rear cover off above the shuttle. You should find a plug in the bottom of that section and another under the torque convertor at the flywheel. These sections are connected and the pump draws from there, through the screened pickup to supply the torque convertor and the power shuttle. Could ypu see any fluid under the power shuttle? It might have been low? Capacity of with torque convertor is 16 quarts. Rear end with transmission gearbox and rear diff is 17 quarts. For the choice of oil, I'm not familiar with the brand but as long as it meets the specs, you should be ok. TCH is specified for the hydraulic system and torque convertor / shuttle. Its replacement is Hytran or Hytran Ultra. I'm sure that many of the other brands are the same or close, but I chose to go with Hytran Ultra and have had good service and no issues over the years. Its expensive. For my hydraulic system that runs the loader and how, I use hydraulic oil that I got two sealed 45 gal drums, destined for recycle because the vendor wouldn't take it back into stock. I'm still using the second drum after many years.
My bad jusk totally over looked drain for it , was cleaning n worrying bout other casings . Lol waiting find something bad n them.. usutif it has tranny or tits it gives me extra trouble .. hope fluid got was right it said takes place of hy- tran
Take your time, you'll have it all figured out eventually. Your hydraulic oil should be fine.
Just noticed this on bottom of seat goes thru casing before putting it back
Does this have pressure on this ??
The rear diff case is vented through the top cover and does not have pressure. Make sure your vent is clean so mo pressure builds up. This could be a source of seal failure? The seat tube has a long spring inside to help raise the seat for using the backhoe. It will lock in the up and down positions. You may find oil inside that tube, but nothing to be concerned about. There is a 'o' ring in the top that is supposed to keep any oil in the tube. Mine was badly worn and got replaced as part of the clean up.
I was thinking it shouldn't b but friend ask me yesterday when he looked at it , thought might act like piston but I should have known that with vent ..
Anyone no part # for gasket on this ??
Intake Manifold gasket or the leaking valve cover gasket above it? If its a 188D, the Case gasket number for the intake manifold is G46871 and the gasket for the valve cover is A43030. These numbers should cross over to one of the common gasket suppliers and be available locally. I got all mine in a gasket set with the overhaul. I see you have an alternator and the tach drive in the block, making yours newer than mine. I have the generator driven tach. You will need to remove and eventually replace that bare cable for the manifold heater. If the solenoid is operated, that will have direct battery on it and could be the source of a serious fire with oil and maybe fuel on the block.
I would like take my side cutters n start new with wiring ..I ordered couple rolls wire but they sent 12 gauge n instead 14 .12 would b to big rewire wouldn't it?? It has wire coming back under seat where looks to hook up towards back n on thing in front of gear shifter . What would that wire be for ?? And in other pic wasn't that one u said not to use ether on the one with the heater on side of motor with jusk ? Thought read that some where on yours,
Phil, The intake manifold heater with the bad wire will get pretty hot when its used, so ether could flash and cause damage. Its operated by a position on the key, much like 'accessory' on a car. The wiring diagram will show how its hooked up. For your wiring, there are several gauges used but 14 would be plenty and is a easy to work with. 12ga, would be fine if you decide to keep it, just uses different crimp on connectors. In electrical, larger isn't a bad thing, except for bending in the big sizes. I have my harness on the bench and in between other things am building a new one. On mine, one part is under the dash and connected with plugs to the section on the tractor. The neutral safety switch located by the shifter is designed so that when the gear lever is moved to the 'S' position, you can crank the engine to start. This prevents accidents related to the machine being started in gear an moving unexpectedly. There have been serious, if not fatal accidents related to this type of thing in machinery. On my old tractor, the switch was cut off long ago and not been used because of a problem with the shuttle, where I could not shift the gear box with the engine running. I hope that is fixed with the shuttle overhaul. On my 580CK Project thread, there are pictures of why and the repair. A wiring diagram for your machine with the alternator would be useful in your rewire efforts. I have the generator, so mine will be different. Have fun...
Thanks jusk, hopefully weather good there n u can get back on yours..
Been cool here this spring. We started to say that its fall again but it will warm eventually. We don't want a repeat of last summer with record temps and np rain. This time last year, we had no rain in April at all and it was very dry. May and June did get rain but not enough. I have lost a lot of western red cedar trees, both old and young due to a few years of not much rain. Once it warms a bit more, I will set up to finish and paint the rest of the stuff laying around. The cab and some other panels are still waiting to go to the sandblaster but they aren't required for the initial start up. After today, I'll be away for the rest of the week and no email. Other projects keep getting in the way right now but a few weeks and I can put some time in on the old 580 again.
a good place to visit to see a sectional view and get part numbers free is coleman equipment.
http://www.colemanequip.com/ModelPa...tm_term=kx121 parts&utm_content=KX121-2 Parts
Thanks swampfoxo .. ya every little bit helps .. you bout have yours where u wanting it?
Finally got all parts n put back together, radiator back on starter back and put on new gaskets on casings under seat , new radiator cap , thermostat. Valve cover gasket, drain gas tank cleaned out lines up to pump took fuel filters off n cleaned them they have not been on long .. fire it up time ............ bleed line down to filter and after long awaited time she fired up ... but still idiling rough .. ( pull my hair out --- if had any ) pumpguy said crack lines open n check out while running, try do that n lil bit , anything else could try or overlooking.. thanks
Ok more bad juju , crank up n less 5 min was blowing water out overflow , after all done ...... can someone tell me something other than head ......
I guess we found out what "idles bad" means.. sorry guys, private joke between Phil & me..
Lol , that ain't even funny pumpguy ... just lil ... welcome to hoe world ... one n same ....
Crank up today sound like running fine again..,,,,,, flipping gremlins....
Crank up again without radiator cap looking inside n nothing moving for couple min n turn off , any wisdom from case experts??
Ok , I'm in process of putting new head gasket on , dale has got it on way .. anything should watch for or don't do ?? Or any threads on here has detailed tear down of this?? Thanks for any advice.. I just thought my trusty ol eastwing kept my fingers sore.. don't have nothing on ol Backhoe.. lol
its been a lil while since ive been on here. I totally redone my rear cylinders and the hoses. repainted it. I'm working on the mid section now. I got it needle gunned up and will be putting a wirewheel to it cause I don't have access to sand blaster and with all those vents and internals I don't want sand in my machine. 90 percent of my hydraulic cylinders have been rebuilt. had both wheels off the ground for 3 days and never leaked down. no body was more surprised than i
phil thanks. thers another phil on here he left a lot of info on here I guess he has past haven't seen anything from him since 2011. or so. I am new to these machine. I have never done this before but I'm not scared. I'm an old country boy if bailing wire and duct tape doesn't work it cant be fixed.lol these shuttle are hard to find so I bout 2 of them and put them on a shelf just in case. both units are good but used. hows ur project going. I usually dig hole 8 feet wide 8 ft deep I guess and 15 ft long I burn trees in the hole. I got 12 inch pallet forks on my loader so I can pick up 10 ft trees. plus I dig up stumps. I quit smoking and this backhoe was my reward.
Good deal man, I've still got tackle all hoses except bout 5 but it's on list to do . In middle tearing my engine apart all I can while replacing head gasket, good luck with mid section just got done with it. Jusk , tinkerer, Melban , pumpguy an many others have helped more than they know, can't think them enough, good luck, I'm standing on front tire now cleaning
When I bought this Backhoe I found this forum and it wouldn't let me login for about a week but let me read Alot stuff that Phil had posted and that's were name came from
Phil im not gonna tear into mind seems yo do better all the time . The shuttle was i assume slipping. Going uphills no power . I drained the oil and used that super s brand in my shuttle but when i added 2 quarts of automatic trans fluid it seems to behelping it. I think im gonna drain it later and put the hytrans fluid in it. The brakes i need towork on as well ad acrackling noise as im rolling . I wanna think its the balls in the brakes. The crown gear are known to come loose. But anyhow igotta change seals around my brakes. And behind them oil leaking. The hydraulic cylinders are easy to rebuild. Just leave it pinned to the tractor opposite the ram. With the ram unpinned you can easily unsping the gland and ram at the same.time. i got minefrom fox seals. Oldboy treated me right. He orders the seals by the type tractor u got.
My brakes sometimes work n even lock up n 2 nd but sometimes ain't worth flip, I sure wouldn't trust them on nothing steep. You get practiced up on your brakes n I'll let u do mine ... haha
Well thd sqeaking turns oug yhe hub bearing went out and wS completely gone so j need z new axle. Fyi righr behind ur wheel on the zxle ix a grease fitting Mine seem to never have had grease added. I just found mine. 300 dollars for the shaft. Gonna change inner and outter bearings both sides.
Sorry fingers to fat
If its similar to the 580CK, you'll need a couple of shop built tools to pull the outer bearing and reseat the outer seal. I built what I needed after talking to Dale Weiss at Tractorstuff and reading some good information on this site. You can find the pictures and descriptions on my thread '68 Case Project'. The tool to set the outer seal is described in my Service Manual. The bearing puller idea came from Dale. If you can't find the pictures, I could try and repost them when I get back next week.
I pulled both axles. Went through 1 axle to the other side with a long rod and knocked outcthe bearing races aon the outside of both axles. Then i used a chisel to get the races out of the inner bearings.
SInce my bearings were reused, but a new seal required, I had to carefully pull the bearing off the axle, using the shop built puller. The races remained as they were also good. I did replace both inner and outer seals, where the other shop biilt tool came in handy to reset the outer seal correctly. The grease nipple is between the seal and the bearing. Some on here have suggested a short hydraulic hose to extend the fitting and make it easier to get at, Its position is awkward at the best of times and often overlooked. While I had the axle tube off the rear end housing, I cleaned all the mating surfaces and installed a new 'O' ring. I had some gear oil and a handful of grease in the axle tube inside the seals. Once you're done, you likely won't forget to grease that fitting....
Oh no ill remembef but i nevrr knew it was there. Damagd was done before i got it. Im redoinv my brakes. I messed up the seal on the passenger side. I found i cut the oring installing it. Im having bad luck.its sunday and gonna trust perries auto will be open tomorrow. I did buy some hy trans fluid from case. I also have some 90 weight oil from tractor supply travellers brand.i am gonna reuse the bearings but im removing the shims. Im checking for movement in and out but also up and down. Im gonna settle with a little movement and pray. If the seals never leak im good. If they do . Lol new bearings will be installed.
Your manual should have the procedure for determining the number of shims on each side. These set the backlash for the differential and transmission pinion. The correct thrust washers on the diff shaft between the side gears and the diff give you the diff and pinion gear backlash. These are all important to get set up correctly in order to avoid issues not too far down the road. Remember to tape over the splines and groove on your side gears to protect the seal when you do the final assembly. I did mine several times without the O ring and seal to get the tolerances correct. These procedures have been discussed here before if you do a search on 580 or 580B.
I ordered some thrust washers since I'm on a boat and I only have 2 weeks at home. I'm gonna change out the thrust washers and play with it till my side bearings on my brake shaft is within specs after I check my manual. having read on here. I think I have several steps one is setting up those bearing cleances on the brakes then the pinion gear to ring gear backlash by manipulating the shims I used to set the brake bearing clearances. I'm not politically correct but I think that's right. I think my bearings are good but the thrust washers are worn out. ill play with it if I cant get it where it needs to be I'm assuming new bearings, this is gonna be fun lol. my brother tells me oh its ok just get things a lil tight but free spinning and it be ok. that kinda scares me. doing it like I'm doing I feel better. anyhow. I have dale Weiss sending me a refurb axle. I got bearings seals and races coming. I hope to get this done with when I go home and I'm trying to resist the need to rush. this is just to important . at least I feel it is. anyways I have rebuilt 90 percent of my ctlinders and replaced hoses. its getting stronger to dig stumps. I love it. I bought and put up 2 power shuttles just in case. when I retire ill have them. save my social security lol. any advice or just rambling is well recived. searching on here is a lil hard but theres a lot of info. probably from phil with the backhoe blues. I think something happened to him.
I'm still working on getting these gears all set. I understand there are several procedures. the bearings that support the ring gear / brakes spindles need to be set in their races just so. since mine is 40 years old I'm assuming the slack I see in the side spindles is worn thrust washers so I'm replacing them. I ordered the whole set from coleman equipment. now it should titghten up like its suppose too. then I will use the shims to manipulate the pinion to bull gear/lol I think into spec. then I should ber good. I hope I caught it in time. I got chipping on my pinion gear . if it doesn't hold up I can change it later. oh what u think of mer slipping a 2 inch magnet in the bottom of my differential case before I seal it up. I think it would catch all the metal etc. or a magnetized plug
Phils ass has been super busy , can't get time to even send pump off but did get head n gasket put on yesterday ( last night ) first chance I've had do anything .. when weather nice everyone finally notices how bad shape there house is n n want it done yesterday. I ain't give up on it yet until I get back together n it won't run , then gonna have yard sale .. haha .. and can't find good help ..EVERBODY WANTS JOB ..BUT NO BODY Wants to work.