I'm getting this to do some habitat work and odd jobs. Earn some extra money etc. It's being delivered in 7 days. My parents got a great deal on it and are passing the deal onto me, but we don't know when fluids were done last. It starts and drives. Bucket works (has nothing on the rear now) Brakes need work. I'm thinking to just drain and replace everything so I know it's all fresh. Good plan?? Without spending $100+ on a manual right away, are there cheaper resources to show where to drain and fill things? I work on my own dirtbike and ATV but this...ahhh?? I change my own oil & diff lube in my V6 Tacoma, bolted on new suspension for it too, but I'm no mechaic.
Well I'm off to a good start. I can't even work the forum... Haha. Somehow managed to duplicate my post. Ooops.
If you're going to replace all the fluids and the filters, then you won't be spending that much more if you get a manual. Well worth the investment.
Obviously change the filters at the same time you change the fluid. Find out if there are any screens to clean while it's empty. I always drain fluids after running for a while, thinking the dirt is all loosened up and in the oil or filter, not sitting on the bottom of the tank. You should be able to find everything you need to know online, but it might be easier to get the manual (s?). I hope you have a working differential lock, is there any weight on the rear end at all? fluid in the tires? (if there is fluid, beware that it's typically extremely corrosive/salty, unless it's molasses like fluid) Does that have a three point on the rear? maybe get a weight box?
Yep It's got all the 3 point linkage on the rear and a hydrolic cylinder hanging from a chain on the rear of the rol cage (not sure what it's for..haha) I hope the dif lock is working too! I'll know wednesday when it shows up. You guys are right, I should just get a manual. How do you check for fluid in the tires? Jack it up and pull the valve cores? Front and rear? As for the rear weight, I suppose without any it'll limit my bucket capacity, or just traction? I'll be getting a 3pt box blade soon. And yes I will surely be replacing the filters. Hopefully Fleet Farm here has all that. Thanks. Also, do you ever put any liquid tire sealant in these tires, like on an ATV?
If fleet farm doesn't have the filters, and I doubt they'll have the hydraulic, but maybe? filterspro had everything I needed for several much more obscure machines than yours, and good enough prices that it was worth ordering the common ones from there too. You could post a pic of the rear valve stem and we can probably tell from the rust and corrosion on the brass if there's fluid or not, or you could wait until the next warmer (relative/around freezing) humid morning and the frost/condensation line on the tires will tell you the exact level of any fluid. No need to jack or pull the cores, just checking the pressure with the valve stem anywhere but at the top will rot out your gauge in no time if it's cloride in the tires. If you don't have any ballast and feel you need some after using it, I'd look at beet juice, not sure what it's called, but it's not corrosive and not that expensive. I've never seen front tires with liquid, but you never know. I've also never seen sealant put in big tires, maybe bigger tires get bigger holes or it's just the cost?
Thanks for the tips. I was confused at first. I thought you mean built up condensation, like in an air compressor. I get it now. For ballast... Is there any good way to tell if the hydraulic fluid and filter are fresh, so I don't dump good stuff? I'll do the motor oil and filter for sure. And transaxle (that what this has right, a transaxle?), as well as the shuttle. I better just order up that service manual right away. I know SO little on this...haha.
Are most 3 point implements universal? This should work on my 580c right? : http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/king-kutter-60-inch-box-blade/0000000010021 Or maybe it should be the 72" http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/king-kutter-72-inch-box-blade/0000000010023 ??
You will want a 96" box blade or at least an 84". Where those said "category 1 hitch", you are probably looking for a cat 2 hitch at least, maybe a cat 3. The difference is the pin size and spacing. Both of those are for a much smaller tractor you could hook them up, but you better have a good welding machine, because a 580c will rip them apart.
LOL. Ya I kinda figured since they were narrower than the rear of the 580. Maybe I gotta look at an actual implement dealer. We have a couple around here. I suppose the price is gonna go up tho...
Does this look like it is set up for catagory 2?
Measure the diameter of the holes. That looks like a cat 2 toplink but I wouldn't be surprised if those were cat 3 arms, and there's bushings at the top pin on the top link.
Ok, thanks. It should hopefully be delivered in a few days. I'll measure then. If I'm mainly going to be clearing brush and scraping and leveling the ground, is the box blade probably the best way to go?
Your tractor seems to be set up as many are for utility line easement clearing or heavy landscape work, the cage was probably built for screens for protection from thrown debris, the assist cylinder to aid a man in single swing of a large brush cutter or debris mill. The three point appears to be Cat 2, Pins for the lift arms should be 1 1/8": http://www.oktractor.com/3point.htm Will make a good brush hogger or landscape tractor with a box blade.
Great. Thank you! I'll get this all figured out eventually. It's supposed to be in the single digits when the 580 is delivered. Hopefully it'll still start ok so I can drive it home from the drop off location. Do you guysusually put a battery tender on the equipment and run an extension cord during the winter to keep the battery maintained? I'll probably run the tractor once a week or so during the winter, but only for 10 minutes to an hour or 2 tops, depending. Any additives to add to anything for cold weather use? I really appreciate the advice.
A battery actually discharges faster in hot weather, and lasts longer in cold weather so it should sit all winter and still start fine in the spring. Tractors are much better than cars and trucks are for draining batteries, when the switch is off everything is off, no clock, radio, computer to drain the battery in a couple of weeks. If the battery loses charge it's most likely either a bad battery or the alternator diodes are leaking. Plugging in the block heater for an hour or so sure is a nice thing to do for you and the machine. If it doesn't have one, get the most wattage you can find and use it for an hour or two, not overnight. Depending on where it came from, I'd dilute whatever fuel is in the tank 50/50 with #1 diesel, or just drain the old stuff and use straight #1.
You have a rare machine, and the three point hitches are a nice add on. I have only seen three on a 580c in my years, but a lot of 480 loader landscapers over the years. Most used a gannon type rollover box blade, really heavy duty for site work, most did not have a PTO since it was bought for the heavy duty box blade work. The good thing is you can also buy a used 35 backhoe assembly and remove the three point hitch plate and have a 580c backhoe also. Could not see a PTO in your pick, does it have one.
I was thinking the same thing sheepfoot! I would love to have that for our C.
They discharge faster in the winter eh? Ha. I guess I had it backwards. Thanks for the info! And, #1 diesel? I didn't even realize there were more than one grade of diesel. Boy, I don't know much, yet...
Rare because of the 3 point? I see most 580c have a hoe on them. I hope it has a PTO. I was told it did, but it doesn't look like it, does it. Hopefully it has a PTO or I'm not going to be able to run a brush hog so well... I just hope the brakes are the only things not working so good.