Hi there, i recived a pallet of wide pads 35" wide (60-70% left), i wonder if it`s difficult to drill new holes for an other bolt pattern? I will cut them of to 22" wide. Is it worth the work?
Not in a million years !!!!!!
Well I guess the question is, what is your time worth and how soon Do you need them.
I am in the process of replacing track pads on a 951C. They were 18" pads and I had to cut 2" off one side. Now they are 16" offset pads. The bolt holes were the right fit and I am using all new Cat hardware going back. There are thirty nine shoes to each side. The shoes were new but have been stored outside for years and are a bit rusted. I use an angle grinder to knock some of the rough surface off where the pad meets the rail and bolt head. At this point I have replaced 17 of the 39 pads. Half of the bolts will break loose using a 1" drive 15/16 impact socket with a 6 foot cheater pipe, then finish the run off with a 3/4 impact wrench. The other half of the bolts will not budge using the cheater pipe. They require cutting the bolt heads off with the hot wrench and driving them through the rail with a punch. Tighten with a 3/4 impact wrench to 150 lbs. Then add another 1/2 turn using the 6 foot cheater pipe. Use a 3/4 cold chisel to wedge between the nut and the rail to stop the nut from turning on the bottom. Two to five pads per day is about my limit. I can't imagine having to drill new bolt holes. Better to sell the pads to someone that has a machine that they will fit or sell for scrap iron and put the money in on pads that fit. When I finish that job I have to rebuild the lift and tilt cylinders, replace all of the gages, and change all fluids and filters. By then it should be spring and I'll get to actually ride on it.
This is my thought
You would have to have the hole spacing perfect on every one, too.
And what kind of a price you can get a case of drill bits for? Never tried drilling a hole in a track pad but imagine they are a little bit on the hard side.
Just changed pads on a new set of chains for a D7H, half bolts came out, the other half we heated the nuts red hot, then impacted them out with a 3/4 impact took about 2 hours for 41 pads, alot easier than cutting them off, and then you don't have to drive the bolts out. Never had to use a chisel taking off or putting new ones on. Install 250lbs plus 3/4 turn with two guys and a 6 foot pipe.
Didn't ever think about how hard it would be to actually drill a hole in a track pad. I will take back my previouse statement and go with what was already posted, sell them or scrap'em and buy the right pads.
I cut the nut and bolt on the bottom side(Inside link) and then knock the shoes off the chain/rail with a sledgehammer.
Our company would say that was not a safe way to work. "Cheater pipes" are strictly prohibited! And I would never resort to such a thing! Well not without a quick look out the shop to see who is around. :naughty
You need a RAD Tool.........
Dont know D6r? Alot of variables in the decision.How often do you use the machine? How much money do you have in the pads on the pallet? what do the do the new correct pads cost? How much time do you want to spend on it? I have the same problem on one of our dozers only a little different circumstance. We are looking at installing CAT D8K rails on our IH TD25 dozer. My IH pads are in pretty good shape and would hate to just scrap them & buy the new Cat pads. I need to take a pad to my track supplyer & match it up on the 8K rail just to see how far they are off. I'm guessing each hole in the IH pad will have to be slotted / elongated somewhat with a torch. Dont know yet. With what things cost these days I aint above a modification to make something you already have work . Good luck whatever you decide D6r.
Yair . . . Is there any logic to the notion that pipe extensions are dangerous . . . I assume "safety" is the premise? Cheers.
They claim that you are working the tool past it's designed capacity, and that if it was designed for that much torque the manufacturer would have put that length handle on it. Really just CYA, can't put part of the liability on the manufacturer if your employee was using a pipe.
Yair . . . Oh dear. I always assumed my one inch breaker bars were made to take an extension. It would take a long socket box if the manufacturer was to supply adequate handles It is much safer to apply a given amount of torque with half the effort. Who comes up with all this B/S, not everyone has access to air or electric impacts. What about slogging spanners, do they specify what weight sledge hammer you can use? Cheers.
Yeah, you don't really need that 1" drive if it's only a 20" handle you're pulling, do you? I thought they were restricting use of sledge hammers in mines and whatnot in Oz?
Yair . . . Dunno about restrictions mitch504 but I always had a set of these from 11/8" through to about 3 inches. http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=5&S=24&G=60514&P=68741 Real handy, you could whack them with a hammer or use them with a handle . . . I squashed a short piece of heavy wall pipe and welded it to five feet of 1" sked forty, had it in the truck for years. Cheers.
Cheater bars, flogging spanners, & sledghammers - all outlawed. Blame the Aussies, BHP Billiton started all this ****......
Flogging spanners = slugging wrenches
√ ... Cigars all around. lol http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench#Types Dang nice looking tools, Scrub ...:thumbsup http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=5&S=24&G=60514&P=68741 OCR
No way, will a slogging wrench work on track shoe bolts. It won't fit between the bolt head and grouser, even if the grouser is worn thin. I can't heft a 20 pound sledge any more. What if you swing and miss?
Nah, we weren't reccommending using them for tracks, we were just talking about stuff the clipboard carriers don't like.
:update Scrub, mitch, and Nige. ..... → ..... :trdjk Consequently, grandpa should be banned... posthaste. OCR...
Sounds fair to me, OCR
√ ... lol OCR
They do them with a ring end as well, although even then I doubt if you'd get one between the bolt head and the grouser. Now THIS is the weapon of choice for track bolts ........... View attachment 108839
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I agree about a given amount of torque with half the effort. How is pulling maybe 50lbs with one hand while using the other to steady yourself unsafe compared to straining to pull 150lbs?
I will try again ..........
Far too logical an approach for the Elfin Safety germs ........
that looks fantastic, but I don't have one an being that I weigh about 150, If I don't have a big impact I just automatically put a big pipe on it, I mean really how much damage can I really do to a 1" breaker bar. Eventually I will get a $1000 torque multiplier and that will even things out a bit for me. Only reason I didn't just use the impact because I was trying to torque them to CAT specs.
Don't forget the requirement to put copper or graphite anti-seize on the threads and under the bolt heads. Failure to do that means you think the bolt's tight but actually it's not.
Try this we have one and it is crazy powerful, they cost about $75 on eBay, they will snap track bolts with nothing more than a little hand pressure, mine pictured is 2 speed and gave $75.99 plus $17 shipping even came with truck sockets ..... Also have a pneumatic torque multiplier I bought off eBay that works well too.
Never saw a wrench like that. Powerjoke, how does that tool work? Where does it get such power to break track bolts?
Primarily used for truck lug nuts. Has a 64:1 gear ratio and up to 4,720 ft lbs of torque. I'd think it would be pretty awkward to try and hold and crank on grouser bolts.
Basically it's a hand-cranked torque multipler.
replacing track pads I don't want to hijack this thread but I have posted quite q bit about my ongoing experience with changing track shoes in the "Track Loader" forum. Look under the thread "Cat 951-C in my sights".
3304 engine blowing oil I have the D4E dozer and it has the Cat 3304 engine in it. I also have a Cat 951C loader with the same 3304 engine in it too. Having before gotten some really good pointers from some knowledgeable people on this forum, and the fact that a 3304 engine is still a 3304 engine no matter what machine it is mounted in, I decided to post my engine question here on the dozer forum as well as the loader forum to get the maximum input. I could use some help in the way of input from some of the knowledgeable diesel experts and shade tree mechanics here. My 3304 engine in my 86J--951C loader is blowing some oil or diesel fuel out of the exhaust stack. What would you think would be the cause? There is some whitish blue smoke coming out of the stack and some blow by out of the breather tube. The engine seems to run good. In the pictures you can see oil, or diesel, coming from a small leak at the exhaust manifold to muffler connection. Notice the oil running down the left half of the exhaust stack, in the pictures, it is the shiny side of the top of the stack because it is wet, and the flipper at the top is also wet. You can also see wet specks of oil on the painted hood after a few minutes of idling. I have not really worked the machine since I have owned it. I have installed a new inner and outer air filter and a fresh oil change w / filter. When I got the machine the inner air filter was stopped up and the outer filter was missing. The oil was two gallons low and very dirty. The oil filter was old and dirty but no metal dust inside. I now have the gaskets and chamber o rings to stop the coolant leak at the chamber o rings. I need to drop the belly pan to hook up the sensor for the new converter temp gage and to get at the transmission filter for a fluid and filter change. Do I need to go ahead and do an in frame overhaul at the same time? New pistons, rings, cylinders and bearings? I don't want to do un necessary work but at the same time I would like to have the machine in good shape come spring. The machine seems to run smooth and sounds good, but I have not cracked the injectors yet to test each cylinder. I will do that before I pull the pre chambers. The engine temperature gage did not work when I got the machine and I replaced the gage. It seems to run cool, just barely up into the green, but again, I have not really worked the machine yet. Any and all comments are welcome. My D4E also has the 3304 and it has a dry stack.
Missing picture Here is the missing picture of the exhaust manifold from the posting above.