This is my second thread on this forum, started with an introduction HeavyEquipmentForums and now that the backhoe is here thought it was appropriate to start a new thread on repairs I do to the backhoe and projects I use it for. It was delivered tonight after purchase and some repairs The repairs were long and drawn out. and it took several trips to the dealer ship to get the repairs I wanted done done correctly. Pictures of its arrival are below.
That's a nice looking old B. I'm sure you will get it sorted out and be a dependable. machine. They were tough machines in there day. Spent many hours on a seat just like yours. Tom
Thanks, hope top get many hours of service out of it.
So what did the dealer do for you?
Not a darn thing.
That hoe looks great nice shape. Im waiting for mine to be delivered also 1974 CASE 580B. Its 5 hous away so awaiting good price on an empty hauler coming back with my CASE. Got to look at brakes as they dont work and buddy said have not for a few years who needs brakes if you know what your doing ....lol. Other then that tires are weather cracked all over. was barely used sat in yard and plowed snow 3 to 4 times a year for past 25 years. Old fella had it and its immaculate and as he said always dealer maintained.
Are you on the bike or in the car in your avatar? That sounds good. Even with new brakes on mine they do not work all that great. with the shuttle **** you reall do not need the brakes, the clutch is tied into the brake pedals so when you push the clutch in in removes the drive to the rear wheels and the the brakes can hole the backhoe on a 15 degree slope. I have been using the gas pedal to control RPM when using the loader, allow the backhoe to cost to a stop where I an going to dump, and shift the shuttle into reverse to move backward, no brakes needed. Spent most of the day yesterday on it, removed some thick concrete slabs, no problems, other than the after market seat is in a terrible position. I did move it back, but it is to high when using the loader (seat design not the pedestal on the tractor).
Im on the bike. 1942 Harley WLC The brake and clutch shuttle is a unique system and i can see how the old guy could get away with no brakes.
I do not know enough, but think you really do not want to use the clutch/brake that much as you might wear out the clutch?? Maybe someone in the know can comment?
Look behind the steering wheel on the dash, lower left side. Mine has a switch there where you can flip it to have drive all the time, or you flip it the other way and it works like yours, it has a electrical switch on the brake pedal arm that activates a solenoid on the shuttle to disengage drive. Mine also had a switch under your feet on the floorboard, it looked like a starter switch, and hitting this switch also will disengage drive. I got mine working and I hated it, so I never use it. I live on a hill, each time I would carefully pull up to something to dump dirt or whatever, I hit the brakes and it starts drifting backwards down the hill. There was no easing up to something without the drive disengaging and the thing rolling back. Then you panic and let out on the brake and it pops a wheelie. I drove a John Deere the other day and it had a thumb switch for this feature on one of the levers to the right of the seat. I think that would work better. If you are doing a lot of loading into a dump truck, you could fill the bucket, run over to the truck, hit the brakes and then hit the switch with your thumb and rev the engine to make the loader raise up quicker without it straining against the brakes. I am not at home right now, and can't think for the life of me what that switch on the dash is labelled. Something like "Drive, Neutral" or something like that.
I'll check in the morning, but do not think I have that switch
I just looked in the 580C manual, and it has that switch in the same position as mine, it is called "neutral" and "drive". Only the power shuttle models had it, I would think yours has something like it somewhere so you can turn it on and off. Of course yours is a B model, so maybe it's different.
I have the manual, I will check. Today's project. Lots of huge stones.
Glenn, if your 580B is similiar to mine (a 1973 model) I think you only have the "clutch" pedal that dumps the oil to the forward/reverse clutch packs and then, as you push the pedal further, starts to apply the brakes. It isn't really a clutch in the sense of a mechanical clutch like you would have in a pickup where you can feather it. The 580B's have such a slushy torque converter that simply applying the brakes at a low throttle works just fine. If you are trying to stop and lift a bucket load of dirt, like when loading a dump truck, then the "clutch" pedal comes into play--you can brake the machine with the hydraulic clutches disengaged and rev the engine to power the loader hydraulic pump. One thing to watch for when working the clutch brake: I found out the hard way. My father-in-law was skidding a big power pole chained to the loader bucket, backing the machine up. He was not familiar with the clutch/brake setup and got confused, ended up letting go of the clutch with the engine revs high, and broke a tooth off the big final drive pinion gears when the reverse clutch pack engaged at high rpm. Even 20 years ago, that cost us nearly $900 just for the single replacement part. Jon.
This all makes sense based on the feel of the clutch pedal. There is no slipping like in a mechanical clutch. Thanks.
If you don't have an Operators Manual it can be downloaded here ---> http://www.minnparbackhoeparts.com/...E 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580B On page 58 is some interesting instructions for lubricating the hydraulic pump splined drive shaft.
I do have the operators manual, but have not had the chance to read it yet. Typical correct?
Popped a power steering hose this evening. I think I will replace both hoses on the left side. One looks straight forward, the other could be a challenge.
LOL !
Power steering lines on the right side had to be replaced (well one, but while I was at it I replaced both) I had to remove the fuel line to get access to the second line which was the line that popped.
So....I was taking to long, and the shop project was waiting on me. There are many more projects I will accomplish with the backhoe, but this projected was time sensitive with winter coming so I broke down and hired a guy to finish the trench. The Trench to the Barn, Power to the shop, even water Not sure how to make digging a trench and putting a water pipe and conduit (for power for the shop) into to it interesting. This is the start of the conversion of the brown barn into my new SHOP!. I have to start somewhere. More videos to follow.
Last weekend, I finally got my "B" to move well enough to grab a bucket of dirt. I have previously replaced the two easy power steering hoses on each side, but one of the original yellow hoses (the difficult ones to get to) let go while transporting dirt. I removed them and you are right, they were tricky to get to but I could get them off by removing the "T" closest too me (from the left side) after disconnecting the lines. This made it much easier to get to the "T" on the right side. I have to put them back on this weekend. I tried to find new "T" fittings in the same configuration as the stock since mine have a bit of distortion on the angle, but the hydraulic place I went to (Store Room Fasteners) didn't have a fitting like it. If they don't end up sealing, I'll have to do some checking around for some good, used pieces. Please keep us updated on how your machine is doing!
Will do, poured the concrete for the shop floor today. Windows are in.
This is a short video of the install of the Frost Proof water Hydrant into the shop.
This is the second project I have done with my new used backhoe. My only real operation experience has been with much smaller equipment. This is the second day of 50 degree weather here. I wanted to take advantage of the warm weather to try and repair some of the driveway. It suffered greatly in the barn build and winter. Any pointers are welcome.