This is my first post, I found this site via a link on plowsite.com . I have a 2008 JD 544 and need to have a backup loader / shop loader. I found a very nice 1986 Trojan 2000z that has fresh paint, new motor, all cylinders rebuilt and 4 matching 90%+ tires. The only thing it needs is a cutting edge (any ideas ?) . The machine is amazing looking and has 8000 hrs on it but keep in mind all the recent work done on it. I have always bought strictly JD equipment but this Trojan seems like a great deal and will get minimal use. My dad who started the company said I am going to regret it when it comes to parts and downtime due to availability of parts. I have found places like http://www.minnpar.com/construction.cfm that claim to stock all major parts for the 2000z and ship over night. I guess I really just want peoples opinions on the 2000z as a whole and how they feel about availability of parts. If I do not get this loader I will probably look at a JD 644 c - e . Thanks in advance.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Sk187! :drinkup
I have 3 Trojan loaders 1500z, 1900z, and 3500z. I get parts for them pretty easy. Good snow machines they start up no matter how cold. Strong, quick, and there pretty compact to. Deutz makes a nice motor, and the ZF tranny is unbeatable. i plow a lot of snow so I use them for that. I bought my 1500z brand new back in 1987. I don't think you'll regret it, the dealer I buy from buys all there stuff from Minnpar. Let me know how you make it out it.
Our local metal company can match any cutting edge, both bolt pattern and edge. I'd start calling some of them in your area. In my experience, they are a lot cheaper than finding a factory piece and seem to be just as good. In fact they'll even deliver it on their route.
I know this is an old post but i can't post a new thread yet for some reason. I am trying to find some specs on a Trojan 2500 wheel loader. You guys seem to know a fair bit about them. Are parts easy to get a hold of? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance Lance
Are you looking to buy a 2500? Is it a Z model? I have an old Trojan dealer in the next town over, so getting parts is no big deal for me. I have a 1500Z, 1900Z and a 3500Z. The 1900Z is about the size of a Cat 924, so a 2500Z is probably somewhere in between a Cat 938 and a Cat 950. The machines will start no matter how cold. I have never used ether or plugged the machines in. Big components such as a motor or tranny can be big money, but it's still cheaper than a $170,000 Volvo L90E. Any questions just send me a message I'll try and help you out.
Minnpar is where to get your parts. I have a sales manual for the Trojan line at the office, I'll get specs and post them for you.
Mike F: Could I get a copy of your 1500Z owners manual? I'll pay you for your time if you like. We have one and are flying blind on some things. Thanks, Jim
Volvo 4400 My problem is with braking system. The pneumatic air pressure gauge reads OK as the brake pressure is built up. However the electrically operated gauge only reads when your foot is on the brake and drops to 0 when you remove your foot from the brakes. This is my second reply and I cannot respond to my other question as the system does not allow me to send a reply
I'm trying to dig out the manual right now, when I moved the office around I misplaced it in the shuffle. Want me to see if I can give you a hand over the internet, PM me or send me a message on here, I'll see what I can do.
I'm just looking for overall maintenance /upkeep. We bought this from a logging company about 6 years ago and use it for loading and stacking salt. The rest of the season it pretty much sits. We grease the crap out of it after every use due to the severity of service, and maintain the fluids/filters/ etc. but I get the nagging suspicion there is something we're missing. And parts....well that's another issue altogether! Right now the Deutz is running fine, but the brakes are iffy and the accelerator likes to stick. Cooling belt replaced recently, we keep on top of MCMS but again there's the suspicion in my head. Jim [email protected]
Well i can get you the part number for the accelerator that you can order from minnparr, as for the brakes, when you say iffy do you mean they are not holding well? or do you lose the brakes sometimes?
PM me on the cutting edge you need. Do you have a Part Number. If you don't we'll figure it out.
Sure can on the accellerator pedal. I'll get that to you ASAP. As for the brakes, they are mushy and sometimes lost altogether. I know we're not adding the air line dryer and that is just one of the reasons I'm looking for a manual. I have looked online and nothing yet, then I found your post. We have bled the lines, torn apart the master cylinder and made sure we don't have any leaks (that we can find). I'm considering converting the system to a more car-like setup.
When you lose the brakes, pull the air line off to the air can, if you get a puff of air then you need to either replace your brake pedal, or put a quick release valve in line some where between the air can and foot pedal. This should eliminate the problem. My 1900 had the same problem it bothered me forever.
We'll have to try that! The consensus is it's the master cylinder, but Minn-parr is over $1500. I may have to just eat it and get the master cyl and a caliper. Been a good unit, just getting older and parts hungry. Know anyone looking for a set of forks and a bucket that fits on the forks? We have yet to use it and it's time to go.
Sorry I cant help you with your machine problem but if you make another post, ( you need 3 ) just acknowledge this one will do, then wait about an hour I believe, you will then be able to make a new thread, Title it highligting your problem and I am sure you will get a response. The board is very busy lately and questions get missed rather than ignored. Welcome aboard and good luck :drinkup
have a 3000 trojan front loader found parts in Batavia NY he had a good supply.but does anyone know what could be wrong with our steering ...we replaced the valve body and still no steering...HELP PLease any suggestions??????????
Gonna need a lot more info than that
Mikef87 do you still have that manual? I have a '77 1500 and I do not know much about the transmissions in these nd it sometimes does not go into high speed. Reverse and low forward work fine all the time. Im not sure if I have to adjust the linkage or if its an internal problem. When it goes into high gear it reads about 150psi in the trans and if it does not go in it wont read any pressure at all. Appreciate any help I can get.
Hi All, I have had several Trojan Loaders of over the years and have been very pleased with them and all have been basically trouble free. They were branded as O & K in Europe and Trojan in US. I do all of my own work and repair when ever possible rather than replace. I just recently purchased a 1989 1700Z for $3,000 and 90% rubber. I knew it had a engine problem when I purchased it. I had the injectors repair as the barrels were completely loaded with carbon. Started the loader and no engine knock, plenty of power and all hydraulics worked great. No cylinder leaks any where. After 10 minutes or so, the knock started as a slight rattle and then into a full knock. The Deutz 5 cylinder is 100HP. I am now contemplating a repower with a Cummins 4BT. A few years ago we repowered a 1900Z with a Cummins 6BT and operated extremely well. One can end up sinking a ton of money into a Deutz rebuild. I also purchased a 1996 Scat Trac (Volvo) 1700C for $2,000 that had the Perkins 1004.4 rebuilt and had been sitting for 8-10 yrs. Over the years, the oil pan, side drive plate, radiator and oil cooler had become lost. Used a 1973 Ford truck radiator ($40), Hayden Oil Cooler ($60 on Ebay) and drew up the side plate on AutoCad and plasma cut from 3/8 plate ($52.00) and purchased a door latch from the dealer ($72.00). The original oil pan was cast iron with a large sump (deep) and min I could buy one from a dealer was $1,150. I purchased one from a local machine shop for $30, split it and welded in a 2" extension to get what I needed. Fired it up last week and runs really great, excellent power. Need a dip stick and have one minor seep from a fitting on the pump. Point is that some times you have to be innovative to get what you need and you don have to spen a ton of money doing it. Any opinions on the Trojan repower? Paul
Before you get to excited about doing a repower remember that the cylinders were full of carbon from the bad injectors. If it were mine I would concentrate on clearing the carbon first. Carbon can do a multitude of things that many folks would attribute to mechanical problems. If enough exists it can change compression and also change the´combustion.
The knock on my F5L912 in the Trojan loader was a rod after all. On cylinder #3, one of the rod bolts had come loose and ....... Crankshaft cleaned up at .020 on the rods and .010 on the mains. Ready to start reassembly. I always try to be prepared for the worst case and had purchased a rebuilt 3.9 Cummins Reviva for $1,500. It has a P7100 pump and 130 HP. I'll save it for the next project As for parts, I needed 3 torque converter drive plates. MinPar wanted $225 each and 6 to 8 weeks for delivery. Sierra Machinery in Albuquerque is now a Volvo Equipment Dealer and used to carry Trojan and Scat Trak equipment. They kept their contacts and suppliers active and were able to drop ship the 3 drive plates for just $27 each in 4 days.... Huge savings. Every two weeks they restock inventory and if you can wait, their is no freight charge if your order is shipped with the shop order. Paul
Did you replace the orbital valve
I have a 91 2000Z I was thinking bout converting the brakes. We always have issues with the calipers its a snow machine. I know there must be some other caliper that would work??
I notice that quite a few forum members are looking for parts manuals. Minnpar has them online for free and list many past and present loaders. Go to http://www.minnpar.com/manuals.asp The machines are in alpha order but you won't find Trojan listed. Need to find O & K Trojan to find your book. Enjoy Paul