Finally got around to changing the oil in the rear end of my Ford 555. As can be seen in the photo, it looks rat nasty. No telling how long it has been in there. Threw in a picture of the machine, just because.
Water, is emulsified, gonna be a pain to flush that out.
And did I mention having to use a 3 foot cheater bar to get the drain plug out? Lol
When that happens you're better off using an impact and going at it lightly to break the bond between the plug and the hole. That's a job for Travelers Premium UTF. Going to take more than one flush.
I haven't worked on a 555 since the last century, if the gear case oil is the reservoir for the hydraulics it's going to take a bunch of oil changes to even begin to clear that system. And you need to find the source of water ingress. Be sure and check the boots that seal the shifter levers.
No, it is not the reservoir for the hydraulics. And yeah, I put Travellers Premium in it for now.
I have had good service out of that oil in my Ford 3910 tractor. Been using it a long time.
One really good sign is that there was nothing on the magnet on the drain plug. The brakes are weak, and make a bad racket just as the machine stops. Sounds like trying to put a car's transmission in park while it is still moving. I am hoping that the new juice in the rear end will help with the brakes.
I forgot to mention that she looks good. Straight and no leaks. It has dawned on me that the previous transmission rebuild was 7.5 gallons of oil as the transmission fluid once looked like your center housing fluid. That's a bit of condensation. I think you will find your brake problem was affected by that old fluid. The additive package in the old oil has been gone a long time and the new UTF should make the noise go away. If you still have problems stopping, adjust the brakes a little and see if that helps.
A few hits with a two pound hammer on that drain plug and it would have unscrewed with an open end wrench.
Actually, I did give it a few good whacks with a hammer when I found that it was going to be obstinate. Thought I was going to end up rounding the square right off of it, but it finally broke free. Didn't have a power impact wrench to work with.
I'm glad you got it off. When it didn't break loose the first time hiter again harder and more whacks. I dealt with many, many plugs like that and never ever had to use a cheater bar. Caterpillar were the worst ones. Thankfully drain plugs in sheet metal oil pans were never a problem.
I dumped oil out of my case 580sk hydraulic that looked like that. Put new oil in and still looks like that. I didn’t think about how much oil is in all the cylinders. Mine had set outside along time I think.
Very true. No good putting new oil into a system that's still getting water in it every time it rains.
I wasn't sure if you had the square or hex plug. The square style is OEM. Perhaps it's original. The oil was. Not that you'll need it now, but there's 4 and 8 point sockets that make that job easier. A used one on eBay won't cost much. You'll need a couple of crowsfoots to remove the hoses off the valve block when the hoe blows a hose in the swing tower. Better to source them early. Hoses only blow on weekends when the auto parts stores are closed. For those commenting on new rain water mixing with the clean oil, the sump that CB drained is impervious to rain. His problem was caused by condensation and an extremely long drain interval.
Yeah, I could not figure out how rain water could get in there. Must just be that 32 year oil change interval. Lol
That can do it especially being located in "The Pacific NorthWet"
just an article on water contamination of oils. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/177/removing-water-oil-contamination