I need to replace my valve guide seals on my New Holland LX665 Turbo [1999] and I was wondering if they can be replaced without having to remove the head, or is it easier and better to just pull the head and do it that way? Does anyone have any input on that?
No reason why you shouldn't be able. I done it many of times on other engines before. Takes the proper valve spring compressor and I always used compressed air to hold up the valves.
You would have to pull the injectors and have the proper compressor tester to be able to use compressed air
It is easily accessible [the head] and [Shibaura--844t], so if I pulled the head, wouldnt it just be replacing the head gasket after the seal install? I have a week to do it, so are there any benefits to pulling the head?
No no benefit at all as far as I'm concerned
How many hours are on your machine. If its high hour, but fairly easy to get at. It might be worth your while to R+R head. But I would check compression first to get an idea of engine condition. There would be more than just a head gasket. Valve seals, head gasket, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, turbo gaskets, Possible re surfacing of head, injector gaskets, anti freeze, oil. As long as you don't have blow by, you should be able to clean up valves. install your seals and end up with a nice tight upper end. If a low hour eng and running well, then maybe option A is your best bet. Only a suggestion.
There are 3200 hrs on the engine/machine and it has been kept in good condition. I know that is almost too low of hrs for a machine that is over 20 years old [which may have something to do with valve seals drying up, idk]. But there is not a blowby problem and compression is good, oil pressure is good [45psi consistant at op rpms]...So you are saying it would not be difficult to replace the seals while leaving the head in place? Do I need compressed air, magnet, valve spring compressor or other to do so to keep the valves from dropping? Appreciated!
I also have done seals with head on. It can be a bit nerve racking. As ggpost said, you would need adapter for injector port. Compressor capable of 120psi, a spring compressor that will fit your valve springs, definitely a magnet to capture valve keepers, and a few prayers that something doesn't slip, and things go flying. Plug every oil return and opening on the head just in case. Bring eng to TDC on what ever cyl your going to attempt, and have a way to lock eng when air is applied, so it doesn't roll eng over as soon as you add air. Being at TDC keeps piston at top of stroke and both valves closed so that in the unlikely event you lost all your air. The valves would stop on top of piston, and not fall all the way in. In that case the head would be coming off anyway.
Thanks for that info...I am about to buy a spring compressor now. Is there a particular type that I need to order for my engine to fit my valve springs? What type of VSCompressor would you recommend for my application?
BTW, if you happen to know of any vids that would help my repair, please lmk as it will be good to get a visual as well! Thanks
How about a recommendation for a valve spring compressor kit that I can order to make this job go smoothly...Any links, sites, tips? And what adapters needed for the compressed air? What is the best way to check engine compression on that little diesel? I want to make sure there is good compression before [as Arny L suggested]
I have time constraints with other business and wont be able to put the new seals in just yet. Is there a serious risk of running my machine with leaky valve seals until I have time to do the repair or is it just a matter of buying more oil to replace what burns off and the inconvenience of exhaust smoke [mainly after idling]? Thanks
Running any engine with worn out valve seals and/or guides will not do any harm. As long as you keep it full of oil. If it were mine I would remove the head and do a proper check of the valves, seats and guides. One little screw up and you will be taking it off anyway.
Thanks for that peace of mind. I always keep it topped off of oil and since the head is somewhat easy to get to, I will be pulling the head and doing it right, once I get time to do so.