My 2008 Volvo L45B shut down while operating. All electronics shut down, as well as engine. I assumed an alternator and/or battery issue. I replaced the batteries and the alternator was charging properly. The problem remained. At times, she would run for an hour before dying and able to start again the next day. Sometimes not starting the next day. The console would light up and die before engaging the starter. Batteries remained fully charged and not an issue. The machine is grounded through the cut-off switch in the engine bay. I bypassed this switch with jumper cables to rule it's malfunction out. This machine has the updated ECU, I believe it's referred to as "ECU-2." All relays text good and all fuses on the machine were checked. I hate to be a parts changer but tried throwing a new ignition switch at her, without success. At a loss, I called the nearest Volvo dealer. The tech did not seem knowledgeable with my machine. He didn't have the means to pull codes, which is why I called. He was able to get power to the console when putting his grounded tester to the 110 wire at the ignition switch. He said he needed to check with his rep and get back to me. Never heard back or received a return phone call after 5 weeks. It was strange but when I tried to ground the 110 wire the same way, I blew a fuse by the startup relay to the left of the ECU. I was able to get power at the console by removing the 110 wire from the ignition switch and grounding it. This gave me more consistency to diagnose the problem but the machine shuts down the same way after running a while in this manner. I invested in a comprehensive service manual and learned that I could pull the codes. I had several but had no idea how old they were. I logged and cleared the codes. I ran the machine with the 110 wire isolated and grounded until it shut down and re-checked for codes. None. I can't get her running with the 110 wire properly installed in the ignition, but tried several times. Still no codes and at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. - Ron
I'm thinking that the issue is with the ECU but am hoping to confirm before spending that kind of money. I would appreciate any recommendations on how to isolate the issue and any possibility of bypassing the ECU. We have a significant snow storm coming in tonight and could really use this machine. Thanks
I'm still down after battling more than two feet of snow without my loader. No one has any ideas that can assist me to isolate this issue? I will update when I can get running.
You wont bypass the ECU.........and your dealer tech didnt know what he was doing obviously. FWF is the resident expert on all things Volvo. He will need the complete model and serial number of your machine before he can help with anything.
Thank you Vetech. Yes, my experience was not a good one with the dealer. The loader is a 2008 L45B with serial number 1952098. I'm not sure how to get this information directly to FWF. I would certainly be willing to compensate anyone for their efforts. Thank you.
On some American models there is a battery relay. Its dependent on the ignition switch. Disassemble the steering column shrouding , yes it's a real pain. Pull the floor covering as well. You'll see a piece of tin , it may or may not have screws in a s shape with folded edges. This covers the harness from the column to the ECU . Commonly the harness will get chewed up by the tilt mechanism for the steering column. The tunnel for the harness in the floor sometimes chafes the edges of the harness. Lastly inside the ECU area, to the left as you're looking at it should be a heavy relay next to your A/C fuses. Check that the relay is energized by the key. Worse case scenario, bypass 30 lug to 15. This will effectively make it a European version. The ignition dependent relay does not show up on factory schematics, it was a mandatory product update, without the service bulletin it's very hard to understand. I hope this sheds some light on possible causes of failure.
^mensa stuff right here
I don't know about all that.
Hi FWF. Thank you very much. Great info. I had all that apart. The steering column shroud remains off, along with my ignition switch dangling. I put the floor back together but did a visual inspection with no obvious wire issues. The relay to the left of the ECU is energized when the machine starts but not when it doesn't. I can consistently start with the 110 wire from the ignition switch, isolated and grounded but it eventually stalls. When it stalls, all dash lights cut out. When I try to restart, I will get some lights for the beginning stages of diagnostics that cut out before the starter relay will become energized. After sitting for a bit, it will start again. If I start and disconnect the ground from the isolated 110 ignition wire, it will immediately stall and all electronics shut down. If the 110 wire is installed properly in the 10 slot of the ignition switch, I get the exact response described after it stalls when rigged. I'm excited about trying to bypass the 30 lug to 15. I assume this is on the ECU. I'll let you know as soon as I do. We're forecasted for a little snow here in the morning but will get to this as soon as I can. Your information is sincerely appreciated.
You want to jump the external relay. Nothing on the ECU.
Ahhh. Got it. Thanks. I didn't recall the numbers for the connectors on the ECU. Thought you meant those. Thanks for the clarification.
Yeah, you're just just jumping battery to accessory essentially. That relay does what your battery disconnect does, just on the hot side.
Hi. Sorry for delay but busy moving snow to prepare for a week of more. I double checked for any frayed wires and jumped the battery relay as recommended. No change. I confirmed that the battery relay is energized at all times, even when the 110 ignition wire is not grounded and the console is dead. It is the only relay that does remain energized. The ECU itself consistently remains energized and grounded. The only consistent clue is that if the ignition 110 wire is isolated and grounded, it will operate normally. I don't believe that this wire is a ground wire. Even if it was compromised somewhere between the ignition and the ECU, why would grounding it help in any way? Equally puzzling is that eventually the machine will die exactly like it did without the "rigging." Thanks - Ron
I'm sorry, I shared all I have in that respect. I no longer have access to Volvos service bulletins or schematics. I do recall that the bulletin explained the upfit with ECU I & ECU II. Sorry, I really wish I could help more.
Been a bout 3 years since I worked on Volvo but if I recall the engine shut down module was accessed through the panel in front of the seat. It was bolted to a plate and kinda hard to get at...we regularly replaced these units. Usual symptom was machine would completely shut down for no apparent reason, sometimes several times an hour then it would be OK for days. The only other thought I had was on some Models when you are standing behind the machine open the engine hood, look along the LH side frame way back in. There is a ground wire on some bolted to the frame that is fused, ......yes a fuse on the ground side, they would rattle loose and cause strange things. The mini ex had the same wire and it's not on any schematic.
Hi Gil. Thank you very much for the info. I didn't get your post until now. I'm still stuck with this machine but will be sure to update as soon as I have it figured out. Since my dealer is not on the ball in my case, I decided to call two others to try to get an understanding why my machine would function properly when grounding the 110 ignition wire. Both were stand up guys but had conflicting opinions. Understanding the electrical schematic is a bit over my head but one tech felt that he saw a rationale for the temporary success and the other felt pretty confident the problem was in the ECU. The first felt that there was a good possibility in a faulty K2 or K5 relay. These are external from the ECU and in the battery compartment. He explained that there is extra current supplied to the K2 relay upon first starting the machine and could explain it's ability to function until the machine warms up and eventually failing. This is what has been happening while jumping the 110 ignition wire. He recommended replacing both of these relays. The K4 relay is the only other relay in this area so I decided to replace this one as well. One was on back order and I was able to replace all three last week. The K2 is a large relay, K4 and K5 are standard sized. The K2 came in several weeks ago and there was no change and I was still able to start with the 110 ignition wire grounded. After replacing the K4 and K5 relays, no improvement and now no ability to start while grounding the 110 ignition wire. I put the old relays back in and still no luck. At this point, When I turn the key to position 1, I get lights on the instrument cluster for about a second or two then they go out. The external relay by the ECU, that FWF mentioned earlier, engages but not K5 in the battery compartment.
Hey Gil. If my issue was the engine shut down module, that wouldn't affect the electronics, right? Wouldn't I still have power to my instrument cluster? I have a battery disconnect switch on the right side of the engine compartment. It is a ground disconnect. I've tried bypassing this switch along the way with jumper cables. I've never lost ground or power to the ECU.