Hello, I have a Wain-Roy Swing Coupler that has a leaking seal for the hydraulic cylinder. I have tried everything I can imagine at this point to remove the 2" pin in order to gain access to the cylinder. I have rented a jack hammer and pounded the pin..no movement; I have built a 50 ton press and tried to press it out....added heat and PB Blaster....no movement....I'm now looking for other ideas as this piece of equipment is junk unless I can get the hydraulic seal replaced.
Would disconnecting coupler give you a better view,accessibility to problem area?
-weld a nut on the end and try braking it free in rotation -get access to a thermic lance and burn it out, obviously would mean you'd need a new pin
Unfortunately no, I connected it so that I could move it around as needed. It is seized up and I think it is the middle section where the seize is located.
I have never heard of thermic lance until reading your post; I welded a grade 8 bolt to the top today and welded some ears to keep it from moving...I then connected the hydraulics up to try and make it swivel but it it completed seized...would not twist..actually broke the bolt in half.... I ordered some Kano AeroKroil Penetrating oil which I hear is the best out there in terms of penetrating oil....gonna try that when it arrives and continue to let it soak under pressure. If that doesn't work, I may solicit the work of a machine hydraulic shop while I see if I can locate the parts to replace.
Do a search on this site. There was a thread on using thermic lance on stuck pins to burn them out. Member Nige might have some info on CAT's version. Seems to be quite portable and easy to use. You will need a couple of feet of access to the end of the pin. If renting or buying a lance is out of reach, perhaps a CAT service call with theirs may do the job for you.
This thread has a post by Randyxx of a home-made lance. HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks so much....I viewed a youtube video and now understand the process....it is like a plasma on a larger scale. I am going that route now! Appreciate the advice! Will keep you posted.
One of the poster welded a "V" (piece of angle) at or near the pin to guide the lance straight and centered. You might do the same. Like a oxy torch, I imagine the lance could cut beyond the pin anything you really want to keep. The blowback splatter is quite impressive.
I'm trying to make a Thermal Lance now....I think i have gotten all but the lance rod and connection to the trigger mechanism. I'm trying to find 1/8" iron pipe now...hard to find ...and trying to figure out a nipple to fit the end of the short stainless steel pipe....any suggestions and does it look correct so far? I took and air blow gun and went to the welding shop to get a hose fitted to it so I can attach to my oxygen.
Would a brake line work as the lance? If so, aren't they stainless steel?
Disclaimer: I have not used or built a lance... Seems like you're making it more complex than required. You said the pin is 2 inch diameter? perhaps 1/4 black iron pipe might serve as well. Start with a piece about 5 feet long. Pack the pipe with soft iron wires. They will serve as fuel along with the pipe. Nothing galvanized to avoid poisoning yourself. Thread the pipe to a ball valve. Then hose to a hi flow O2 regulator. Use barbed fittings and hose clamps. O2 Pressure isn't more than 100psi. Clamp welder ground to the pipe. Start the O2 flowing, then strike an arc at the tip to ignite the lance. Adjust the o2 flow and apply to the end of the pin. Be prepared for impressive amounts of incandescent splatter and blow back. A shield / deflector for the lance operator sounds like a good idea. Along with an assistant equipped with a welding goggles and a fire extinguisher. So using stainless or brake line isn't a choice since they will either burn too quickly or not at all.
As I understand the processes... Plasma uses the arc to melt the metal and air to remove it. So it works on stainless steel and other non-oxidizing metals. A thermic lance is more like a oxy/acetylene torch but instead of burning acetylene for heat, the lance burns itself.
Thx Much, I am going to search for pipe today...hard to find pipe that small so far...but I'm searching. Will keep you posted.
You can buy rods on Amazon.
If it’s a 2 inch pin I would do a 1/4 black iron pipe. 1/8 might be to small. It will burn fast and you really want to cut at least half the metal out of the hole. so it heats up and has room to shrink
I replied to the other old thread, but I guess it's already been answered here about what pipe to use. Black iron pipe is perfect, 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2". If you don't want to go to the trouble, and I have never done it, you could drill through the center of the pin and blow out the hole just a little more with a cutting torch, that will do the same thing without as much molten steel flying in your face. The center of the pin usually isn't as hard at the outside and can be drilled without too much trouble.
Black iron pipe is stocked at Home Depot around here. It is actually ungalvanized steel. You can't use stainless for the same reason you can't cut it cleanly with the torch, it is oxidation resistant.
Please use some words...I have no idea what you are trying to communicate. Thx.
Dang wrote a book. And then I didn't hit save all it did. was upload the picture. The ridge that forms on the pin sometimes rolls the edge of the bucket side bore And basically swages the pin larger than the hole I think that's probably what you're fighting obviously removing the cross pin you would have seen the pin beat to heck. That bolt up inside the coupler