Please let me know if this is the wrong place for this ask, but I'm looking for a recommendation for a heavy equpiment mechanic who can adjust / tune / fix hydraulics on a '92 Hitachi EX200 LC-2 in West Michigan, specifically within reasonable driving distance of Big Rapids, MI. I've owned this machine for a little over a year now, engine runs great, but it has issues with the hydraulics. Specifically it seems like something is adjusted incorrectly in the valves that causes the machine to bog down when more than one function is used at the same time. Basically, pick one of curl, lift, track, etc. but combine any two and the machine bogs and tries to die. It also bogs when tracking in general, but that may or may not be the same issue. The machine does have a throttle override so it's cable operated instead of computer controlled, but it doesn't seem to be an issue of not enough power, it seems to be an issue of not enough flow. I had the locally-recommended mechanic lined up last summer to come out and look at it, and his best guess was that it needed hydraulic valve adjustment, but he ended up jerking me around all summer and never showed up. I'm comfortable working on engines but I'm not equipped or experienced to work on the hydraulics of a machine like this. If anyone can recommend a mechanic or is a mechanic within reasonable driving distance of Big Rapids, I'd love to have someone out. It's going to go from site clearing and foundation digging to pond dredging this summer, and I'd very much like to have it operating at spec before I get it on soft ground. Thanks!
Just giving a little bump here in case someone that hasn't seen the thread can help.
I can't help you with a tech in that area. Are you sure your engine is capable of carrying a full hydraulic load?
It's tough to say 100% for sure, since the engine does bog down in the circumstances I'm describing, but it's a really nice running engine - reliable starter, no major blowby issues, no missing, turbo sounds good, etc. Plus, the only feedback I've gotten from the mechanic who flaked on me was that it was hydraulic-related.
Let's not trust the opinion of someone that flaked. Do you have the capability of checking engine rpms?
Not directly - no RPM gauge. By ear is the best I have at the moment.
This site would be able to help troubleshoot your problem and fix it. We will need a decent mechanic in your area that could follow instructions and have reasonable tooling. Is there such a person near you? They don't need to be an expert.
I would start by checking your fuel system. The fuel filters have screens inside the banjo bolts. The electric feed pump also has a screen. And the peckcock on the fuel tank for the supply line is small and clogs up with debris easily.
I think what I'll do is go up and take a video of the machine and it's operation and then come back and post a new thread & link to from here. I can walk through the machine, the problem, and show it happening that way.
I would also start with engine performance. I fixed an old Deere 200lc that would bog or stall when running multiple functions. I disassembled the fuel filter head and found it clogged with debris. Cleaned it out, resealed, new fuel filters. Ran perfect after.
I don’t know machine mdls but I do know inj pumps.. If that engine has an in-line inj pump on it, more than likely it has a supply pump bolted to the side of it.. Find the hand primer.. follow it down to the rubber line that’s coming into the bottom.. That banjo bolt will/should have a screen in it .. that ALWAYS get clogged w debris.. small sticks, fuzz, bugs.. it’s amazing some of the stuff that’s in the screen.. Give it a look.. Good luck
Here's the video of the machine walking through performance and showing the issues -
I can't hear the engine very well but it sounds like your no load high rpm is horribly low. I would touch anything hydraulic until the engine high idle no load is within spec. If its not within spec and you start adjusting hydraulic valves you are going to compound your problems. Get a way to check engine rpms before you do anything else.
The throttle is entirely manual at this point, driven by a cable from the cab - that's one of the things I pointed out in the video. Idle is whatever I set the throttle to.
But is the throttle lever going against the stop on the injector pump is my question
I'm not sure I follow here - what am I looking for?
Your manual cable is connected to the injection pump throttle, RIGHT.?? With the engine SHUT OFF, pull that cable to wide open.. leave it there.. NOW, go to the engine and down to the injection pump THROTTLE.. There is a max stop screw that the throttle lever SHOULD BE hitting.. If not, adjust your CABLE to get the throttle to rest on the screw at wide open..
Got it, I can check that. For what it's worth - I never run the throttle wide open when operating. I'm picking a throttle level that (1) sounds reasonable and (2) gives enough power that it doesn't seem like 1 function has problems.
When you go down to the machine, snap a pic of the inj. pump.. I’m pretty sure it’s gonna be a Zexel inline pump.. which has that supply pump bolted to the side and which has that filter in the banjo bolt below the hand primer..
That may be most of your problem. Bob
Ok, here's photos of both the throttle body and the fuel system. Throttle cable is pulled full-open in the cab for this photo. Looking at it, the purple-ish cable is the one that runs to the cab. The black cable runs over near the pump but is not connected to anything, it hangs loose in the pump enclosure. https://photos.app.goo.gl/vWNzN169cXp8VVXf9
It looks like it’s going to the stop screw.?? U have a pic of the hand primer.. Just follow it down to the line underneath it.. THAT BANJO BOLT has a filter in it..
This whole thing is a crap shoot until we can see some real time rpms
What's the best way to get that without a tach?
Make sure the aneroid line from the intake manifold to the injection pump isn't cracked or loose. No boost signal to the pump will limit fuel injection rate.
You can get a handheld laser tach on Amazon or somewhere for pretty cheap. The one I have requires a reflective sticker on something like the balancer to read.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wenquan.strobelite&gl=US Tried it and it does not work real good but my phone is old and possibly slow.
I to have a laser tach.. the only thing I found wrong with them is the reflective tape.. it doesn’t stick to ****.!! I carry a small bottle of super glue in the zippered pouch w the tach.. I degrease the spot w some brake cleaner and rags.. cut a strip of tape, peel the backing off and apply a drop of glue..and stick to the balancer.. wait a few minutes to let the glue dry and fire up the engine.. Simple and easy
Handheld Non-Contact Laser Digital Tachometer, LCD Photo Tachometer RPM Meter Motor Speed Gauge Gun, Measuring Range: 2.5-99999RPM https://a.co/d/1RAQ6Yb
And simple to use.. BUT.. as stated before, getcha a small bottle of super glue.
Guess he fixed it??? Wonder what the RPM's were? Was it debris in the banjo bolt(s)? Intake line to pump? I gotta know!!!