Searched and didn't find a thread like this so decided to start one. The other day I changed the engine mounts (isolators) on my NH575E. Factory mounts were available from a couple of places but nobody showed 4 in stock. Cost would have been $43-$47 each plus shipping. I decided to go with a similar isolator from McMaster Carr, part number 6309K42 for $17.58 each. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1591 The original factory type would require removing the mount bracket from the engine block that is held on with huge bolts in a greasy location. No way to jack the engine up high enough to slide them in between the mount plates. Both of my front mounts were already buggered up and non-existent. I still had to cut the crush sleeve with a dremel to get the right side out. The MccMaster Carr mounts can be flipped over so one side could be slid in the gap and the part with the molded in crush sleeve can be pushed in through the top. The thickness of the rubber the engine rests on is unchanged. Here is the old and new. The shoulder on the mount was a little deeper than the hole in the plate so I bought some large grommets and pushed one over to take up the slack on top. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/4233 I started to do the rears today but They don't look totally shot and I don't think I'm gonna get out of pulling the mount plates to replace them.
I slap her on the bucket when I walk by. Sorry, I had to make a similar smarta$$ comment that folks made on "What's your hoe doing?"
Attempting to get her to move on her own power.
Trying to get the ol hog ready for summer. Last year I had to replace the coolant reservoir and cap. At the same time I rinsed out the radiator fins and put a 160* thermostat in with fresh coolant. It never actually overheated after that but in 95-98 degree weather it would start to ease up over the halfway mark after and hour or so. I would just limit my work times and take it back to the barn when I saw it doing that. This week I finally got around to draining and flushing. I rigged up a fitting that I could back flush from the lower hose. I capped off the lower hose and filled the radiator with vinegar and let it soak overnight. I drained most of the vinegar into a bucket so I could let it settle to see what came out. After it settled and I poured the vinegar off the top. I had about a half cup of white sediment. Even more milky sediment flushed out on the ground as I flushed it all out with clean water. This was only dealing with the radiator as I didn't want the vinegar in my block. After flushing backward and forward and also from the reservoir I capped it back off and filled with a baking soda and water solution to kill off any left over acid. Then I repeated all the flushing back and forth with clean water. I have a copper wand I made to wash out the radiator, condenser, and oil cooler fins. I can get to both sides of all three and wash from both directions. After I got the loose dirt out I sprayed it all down with air conditioner condenser cleaner and let that soak a while. Then I rinsed them all out from both directions again. I finished it off by putting a good 180* thermostat back in and putting the coolant back in. The old coolant was clean as the day I put it in and checked to -32 so I reused it. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. Took it out back and worked it a while with the heater running. Gauge came up to the halfway mark where it should and stayed there. I won't know till summer if it will stay at the correct temp running the AC in the heat. It won't be as good as pulling the radiator and taking to a shop for cleaning but hopefully will improve the flow enough to work as long as I want in the heat. Here are a few pics of the operation:
Walking by these tires --> HeavyEquipmentForums wondering when the elves are gonna come in the night and take care of it. Lazy buggers have had 3 weeks and nothing. Joe H
Still trying to get my gland free from the swing cylinder…….
Surprised to hear that. What is the problem? Pics?
cosmarr; In the other thread you said you peened the barrel a little. It most likely needs to be peened quite a bit. I have never read anywhere on HEF that the peening method did not free a stuck gland. You need to peen the barrel the full length of the gland. Not just an inch or two from the end.
Hey guys sorry for the delay in getting back. I am trying to get the gland off without taking the cylinder off of the machine. Unfortunately with the mounting plates it’s not easy like a lift cylinder to peen around the outside. At the very most I can only access a small section which to me isn’t going to make much difference in the scheme of things since I can’t get around the whole thing. More than likely I’m going to have to remove the cylinder entirely and get it off that way as you guys suggested. It’s just been so snowy and icy lately I haven’t had time on the good days.
I hear you there!!! I am ready for spring. I have a million things to do!
you said it!!...... the ice melting up your way??
Cosmaar ; I forgot it is a swing cylinder. Nearly impossible to peen it properly without removing it from the backhoe.
Interesting idea using vinegar. I would want to get some test strips for DCA / SCA type thing. Then use additives and get them in order.
Coolant used was Peak Fleet Charge and distilled water. It was only a few months old and clean so I reused it. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ged-fully-formulated-antifreeze-coolant-1-gal At the end of the day I'm not convinced the vinegar removed much sediment but it didn't hurt anything. Probably should have sprung for some phosphoric acid. Thoroughly washing out all the cooling fins probably did as much as anything. I have been wanting to put the thermostat back to a stock 180 anyway so glad to get that done. If it starts to heat up this summer I will go ahead and pull the radiator and send it to the shop for a proper cleaning. Right now it's coming up to temp and stabilizing as it should. I ran it with the AC on for a while yesterday and no problems.
Gonna need to repack the seals in my 555e dipper/backhoe bucket cylinder..it started leaking all of the sudden bad yesterday. I wish it wasnt -20c out so i could work on it..i am hoping this kit will work..85804743 Backhoe Bucket Cylinder Seal Kit Made For Ford 555E 575E 655E 675E Rod & Bore https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V3F2YVE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NQQ2BYKX0RJABYGBNB8R I currently have leaks in both stablizers one swing clyinder, the relief for boom cylinder and now the dipper clyinder...im glad i got this thing cheap .lol
I can tell you this. Mercedes and VW/Audi have a cooling system acid that works for cleaning cooling systems and is safe on both their gas and Diesel engines. I would use one of those products to clean the cooling system. If you need part numbers let me know and I can find them. Also not sure how you drained the coolant but most engines have a block drain the should be removed too. Getting sediment out of a cooling system is a real pain. Takes a ton of labor.
Greased my hoe up today, she going to need it working her hard. Not fun when they go dry on you and you have to spit on your dipper to get some lubrication
Good luck with those cylinder leaks. I have only done my stabilizers and the crowd. Every one has been a challenge getting the right kit. Every one has needed a wiper seal that didn't match what was in the kit. On my stabilizers I machined out the gland to use the wiper seal in the kit since I had access to a lathe at the time. On my crowd I bought 3 possible kits. NONE had the correct wiper seal. I had to match it up by size and order it off ebay. I highly recommend Chris at CEA Services. 813-365-0042 He worked with me on the crowd and let me return the two kits I didn't use. You can buy from him direct or off eBay.
A part number for that cleaner might be great to have for future use. I didn't bother draining the block because I just wanted to clean the radiator. Never seen a block clog. I found half a plastic container from a wiper blade would sit in front of the radiator drain and twist 90 degrees to channel the coolant into a bucket and keep it clean. The coolant in the tractor was practically new so I wanted to save and reuse it. So far it's coming right up to where it should be a stays there for up to 4 hours constant running with the AC on so I think it's gonna be okay. If it does that this summer I should be good to go.
That was some day yesterday in NE PA..... 74 and sun after morning showers. Took advantage of the warmth to get the filters/oil changed. Old girl fired right up after the change. We had repaired some wear bars on my 18 bucket.... needed to get that ready for footer dig this spring. Also passed a milestone on the way to the property.... knew it was coming but still missed the event... morning fog I guess. .... my 2010 1500..... although thats on the body.... put in a Jasper 15k ago I did get the old hoe up to operating temp, hauled a down tree to the burn pile.... but the ground is too wet to work just yet. Would make more of a mess than you'd get done.... won't be long tho.
Some of the hard line anchor straps were missing on my machine when I got it. A couple of lines were gouged up from unsecured movement. The rivet nuts to hold the straps were missing and the only place I found them was a China dealer on eBay. The holes in the boom are 11mm hex shape and the rivet nuts are 8mm with a 11mm hex base. It took several weeks to get them from China. At least they are easy to set without a tool. The hex base holds them so all it takes is an 8mm bolt and flat washer to secure them. One of the crowd cylinder lines cracked on the outside. The line is listed at $550 and showing backorder. I Mig welded the crack and it sealed good enough for cylinder travel but as soon as I applied digging pressure it leaked again. The damage was less obvious after I cleaned it up so put a layer of brass over the whole section with a flux coated brazing rod. After brazing it didn’t leak and stayed dry even after digging and tugging on a stump some. I think the leak is fixed for now. BUT the rivet nut for the strap holding the line near the pivot popped out. I don’t think I put enough tightness on it when I set it so I have to replace that again tomorrow. I may loosen them all and tighten all the replaced rivet nuts in the boom a little batter if that one will tighten all the way down without breaking.. Every time I removed the line strap anchor bolts another one of the factory rivet nuts would break off and fall in the boom. I would have to chisel the top crimped part out and set a new one. If you have a New Holland you probably want to source some of these to have handy. I don’t know how common they would be with any other brand? Edit: Found some of these on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bronze-Carbon-Hexagonal-Nutserts/dp/B01MS63NZ7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ROKGQA8KMYJA&keywords=8mm+hex+rivet+nut&qid=1656384423&sprefix=8mm+hex+rivet+nut,aps,260&sr=8-3
O/A welding usually works for repairing hyd. lines because it basically stress relieves the line being it turns red hot. Brazing works too but you have to put it on about 3 times thicker to handle the pressure. Mig or stick welding can crack in the heat affected zone beside the weld. Heating just under red hot after welding and wrapping it up so it can slow cool would probably help prevent it from cracking. A good hyd. shop could make you a new steel line for far less than a factory line.
Yeah I got away with mig welding one of my stabilizer lines but the crack on it was right at the face seal flange. That's been holding 4 or 5 years. Even though I removed and flushed out this line there is no way to get all the oil contamination out so I figured brazing the surface would be easier than O/A welding and trying to penetrate the metal. I put a fairly thick layer of brass on and let it cool nice and slow. I called all the local hydraulic shops and none were building hard lines. If it breaks again the next step will be ordering a piece of tube, face seal flanges, and a bender to try and duplicate a new one. I could buy all that for about half the cost of the unobtainable line and have the bender left over. Or I could replace it with a hose but that would make for less flow because it would need to be half the inside diameter to fit in the confined area at the base of the boom. May not be a bad thing to slow down the flow.
I have two, reputable hydraulic shops very close to where I live (father owns one, son owns the other). Both shops can make almost any hose you can imagine, but the son's shop doesn't do hard line, and the fathers shop only does hardline up to 3/8", so hardly any of that. I asked why not, given both companies have made serious investments in tooling for their shops, no real answer. I replaced the two hard lines that rotted out with hoses. Cost of ordering, and waiting on dealer, wasn't worth it on an old machine.
I think (just a guess) that the reason that no one wants to get involved with hard piping is the fact that the tubing comes in 20 foot lengths, and is therefore hard to handle. The company I work for has the tools to make the lines, and can get the tubing from one of our hydraulic suppliers, and does make them occasionally, but it is an investment that is not used everyday. There is no substitute for hard piping tho. They do make high pressure compression fittings for hydraulic tubing, too.
McMaster Carr sells 3' and 6' lengths. The line I am working on measures right at 6' with the 7 bends it has. I found the braze on ORFS flanges at one of the discount hydraulic places online. https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/ORFS-Braze-Sleeve-p/fs319.htm?1=1&CartID=1 Bending can be an art form and may take some practice screw ups. Mechanical benders rated for the diameter and wall thickness can be had for $150 - $170 on Amazon. This one is rated for up to 1" and .080" wall. The tube on the machine is 20mm OD so it could be made from 3/4" and it measures a little under .080" wall. https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Bender-10-25mm-Manual-Tubing/dp/B074GN49KF/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1QQVSGUZ01PJV&keywords=tube+bender&qid=1656430066&sprefix=tube+ben,aps,633&sr=8-10 Right now my brazing fix is working. I went out and dug up a stump and separated two big piles of brush into smaller piles to grapple and no leaks.
I'd be more inclined to look at tubing benders for heavier wall thickness. These type are heavier duty. 20mm is 7/8" so you should use the proper size dies. Reading a review of the bender you linked, someone said it was very difficult to bend 1" tube. 7/8" isn't much smaller. Geared Ratchet Tube Benders | RIDGID Tools PEPortable Hydraulic Tubing Benders TB-22 range 18 to 78 inch iGeelee
Finally rewired my friggin radio. The radio in my hoe would just cut off. I traced wires and cleaned connections until I was blue in the face but the problem persisted. I could just wiggle the gang plug it's wires were in at the fuse box and it would come right back but I had to start over on the MP3 sequence that was playing. Sometimes it would go a month or so and other times it would disconnect 3 times a day. Yesterday was the latter and the last straw. I'm thinking it has a cold solder joint in the panel the fuses are on. The fuses are mounted on a circuit board with diodes, resistors, and relays. I didn't want to go that deep into it so I finally decided to run new wires. The fuse panel has 3 posts at the bottom marked 15V, 30V, and GRD. This was always a bit confusing but the service manual made more sense of it. It was supposed to be labeled 15A, 30A, and GRD. Testing I discovered the 15A post was switched and the 30A was constant. I ran two reds and a black up the pillar and over and down the other side to the radio. I installed inline fuse holders at the fuse box and connected the wires with proper fitting eyelets. I taped the new wires together and labeled them "RADIO" for future memory. At the radio end I labeled them +, ign, and grd. Hopefully this is the end of that issue. While working on it I also found a couple of fuses getting hot and melting but not blown. Both were circuits I don't need or weren't working so I just pulled the fuses. This wreaks of issues I found many years ago when working on Fiats. Damn Italian electricals are worse the the British.
My 310A is scheduled to get an LED light package upgrade, when I get my Bobcat out of the shop. Only 2 lights on the tractor work and very poorly at that. I found some aftermarket 4" LED flood lights that should make a marked improvement in lighting performance. I don't regularly dig after dark, but I do plow snow quite often in the dark. I'm debating on fixing the heater while I'm at it. It usually only takes 30 minutes or so to plow so I don't think it'll make enough of a difference to be worth adding. Or, I could just put a plow on my pickup and not worry about the backhoe, but where is the fun in that?!
The LED lights I put on are 1000 times better than the halogen I had on my skid steer. Whiter light and turn night into day.
It was grease day. I can't imagine anyone hating this task more than I do. Sure glad I bought a cordless grease gun. I need to order a new case of grease. Loaded my last new tube when I put the gun up.
I'd dang near fight you for being the top greasing hater, but I saw your big, tough guy hands on the first post of this thread and I determined I'd lose. You got lock-n-lube? I have a few zerks that really don't want to take grease that I need to fix. I haven't been too worried about them because they are on the stabilizers, but I should probably pull them off and replace them after I dig out whatever is stopping flow inside. If I were smart I'd do one little thing, like that, every day or two and my machine would be even more a champ. There are other things I'm just neglecting, and I know I shouldn't but I haven't done them.. Injectors probably need rebuilt, they contribute to blue smokin' don't they?
I need to look into a cordless grease gun. Forget the track loader and backhoe, get a grader if you have a love for grease fittings.
I am going to have one of these real soon too. Gotta grease everything...both machines and my grass cutting tractor. I dont mind the greasing so much as getting the grease all over myself...LOL I am not sure why I cannot grease the machine without getting it on me too, but I cant. That is what I hate!
Welder Dave, When I was shopping for grease I saw the Dewalt gun on sale for $170 on Amazon. That's about as cheap as I've seen it. Aighead, You didn't see any tough guy hands on me. I do have a loc-n-lube. We have a love hate relationship. It was mostly hate out of the box but after I installed the rebuild kit supplied with it it's about neutral. It is a pain to get in some spots and it doesn't always seal. Overall I like it better than not having it but it's not as good as it could be in my opinion. I usually use Amalie Pro Tac+ with 5% Moly. Can't find it anywhere near what I paid the last time. Anybody ever try Republic Oil brand?
LOL, I was just looking on Amazon today and found the 5 gallon pail for cheap. Never herd of them, but was thinking about going for it. I have been using Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 02212-040 Moly Ultra EP Grease, NLGI #2, 40 lb. but it is almost $400 and the Republic Oil Extreme Duty 5% Moly Heavy Duty Grease 35lb is $130. Big difference!
I was impressed that they said they were putting protective caps on the pull tab end. I was concerned they showed the other ends all open on the tubes.
I have the Milwaukee grease gun and I'm happy with it but it was a sight more than 170 bucks. I've had similar experience with Lock-n-lube but I like it much more than I don't, enough that I bought it a second time after I lost the rebuild kit or the actual coupler. Now, I store all that stuff in the grease gun case. I'm also using Schaeffer, but I didn't realize it'd gone up that much $, I thought the last time I got a case for like $230 or so and that felt expensive.
I read the reviews. Many complained that the tubes were crushed on arrival. The company responded to many that they were now using thicker packing and the caps you spoke about. I was looking at a 5 gallon pail. It looks to be steel. I doubt that would get destroyed.
I didn't look closely at the DeWalt deal. It may have been tool only. $170 is about what I paid for mine but I got Tractor Supply to price match a ad then apply a coupon on top to get it that low. My grease gun is one of the few tools I keep in the case it came with. The Amalie grease I've been using was staying around 5 bucks a tube and works way better than the Valvoline 3% stuff I was using. The Valvoline is also rated for wheel bearings so I have to keep a separate manual gun to squirt the hubs on my trailer. I switched to the Walmart brand marine grease for that.
Thought I would follow up on this old thread. My brazing job held well enough to get some work done but had a fine crack that would spray some oil mist under heavy load. That started to worsen last week so I started shopping around again on Monday. I found both a local shop that would build the line and DOH!, a salvage yard that had a good used one 40 miles away. The shop said they would build it for $200 or less and the salvage yard wanted a $110 for a used one. NH wants almost $600 for a new one. I went with the used line and no more spraying oil. Both machines at the salvage yard were burned units and both lines had some rust but the one I bought was minimal. I sanded it all down and painted it with cold galvanized paint. I had bought a loader frame for my JD years ago from the same yard but for some reason didn't think to call them about backhoe parts. They have a surprising number of burned tractors. The tractor I bought my loader frame off of was burnt. The parts puller guy said machine fires were a common result of mouse and rat damage.
Well, my hoe has mostly been sitting due to the mud everywhere (ground isnt frozen and snow/rain). Anyhow, the right front tire has been leaking through the cracks in the sidewalls for some time. So, I figured it was time to fix it...no, not replace the 1999 vintage tire...LOL I borrowed 2 irons from a tire machine, coupled with a couple of prybars and it came rite off I put the tube in, anp reinstalled the bead. It turns out that the vise-grip (original USA version) was a real asset! The tire was back on the wheel in no time. Aired it up, and installed it. Now it is sweet...ready for more work when it dries out.
Great job Swetz!! My fronts are holding up great by my rears have taken it hard due to the rocks.... they have tubes, but I needed to get a slow leak fixed up this past fall.... the 'tire store' rates have gone up quite a bit though... and the price of a tube too. But I would not want to try and work with the 'big' ones.
Dont blame you....too heavy! I got the tube from walmart online. It was $50.00 all in. It was the best price I could find for a tube that was listed as heavy duty. The one on Scamazon showed a real light load rating. I figure it wasnt correct, but wouldnt take a chance on it. Wasnt any cheaper either. One of my other tractors (a project tractor) has a bad rear tire. I plan to change it, but not until the machine is working correctly, cuz, yea, they have gone thru the roof...must be cuz of the oil used to make them??
I don't think the blue handled vise grips are original made in USA models. They're still good but made in China. The sad thing is they still sell for the premium price of the USA made versions. One way to tell is the USA models used a roll pin for the inner bar pivot rather than a rivet. A lot of people were really pi$$ed off they took an iconic US product and moved production to China.
Well, I purchased these, in a set, new in 2001. Vise grip didnt sell out to the Chinese until later. These are the origional Irwin vintage. The new version these is made in Tiawan.
Rubbermaid Newel? bought out Peterson manufacturing and moved production to China. It should be false advertising to still use "original" on the packaging and/or the pliers.
Well I finally got a min. to pull the grip off the Vise-Grip.
Those must be right before production moved to China. I worked at a place that had some new old stock with standard handles and some with the covers. The ones with covers said made in China. I can't remember the date on the package but it was early 90's if I recall. Wouldn't be surprised if the covers were added to make the transition to China production less noticeable.
Finally got around to addressing my non working hour meter. Mine was damaged by the guy I bought it from and didn't have any voltage going to the leads. I think I found a OEM one for over $400 once but I wasn't that concerned about it. Got to shopping around on eBay and discovered some universal tachs that would run off the alternator signal like the original for not much money so I ordered one of those. The original tach has 1/4" quick disconnect terminals and most all the tachs available from US sellers had small pins and came with a plug and pigtail. I found one from a China seller that had the same screw type retainer and 1/4" QD terminals so I ordered that for $25. Ordered it December 27 and received it January 13th so not too long of a wait to get what I wanted. I didn't find any install videos so I made one and put it on the tube. I will post a couple pics of the tach and a link to the video. The info under the video also has a link to the eBay ad if anyone wants one.
Wow! Great video and great job. Now let’s talk about that sexy, beautiful backhoe that purrs like a kitten. I may half to put a muffler on mine instead of a SS Cherry bomb, someone just commented to me the other day about how loud it was. Yours is so quiet and the interior looks like I could watch a football game in it. I want that backhoe.
Good information, thank you for sharing!
Great video learned a little more today thank you for that wow love the way you just turn the key and she fires right up lucky stiff
Finally got around to replacing my wore out LF tire. It hasn't been a problem till the other day and I had to plug it. I have wanted to replace it as long as I've had the hoe since the other 3 look good. Of course the backhoe wouldn't start in the freezing temperatures. I fired up an old generator and connected a space heater and trickle charger on it and let that run a couple hours. It was still weak so I finally hooked up another battery with cables and it fired right up. Loosened all the lugs with a 3/4" pull handle and a 1-1/16" socket with a floor jack handle on it for leverage. After that I raised the front with the loader bucket and put the axle on a 5000 lb jack stand with a plate of 11 ga. steel under it. Lugs spun off pretty easy with a cordless drill after I had them loose. After I got it off I discovered my little Kubota battery was dead so I had to jump it. My truck was spinning on the icy incline trying to get close enough to the Kubota to connect the cables so I had to put the truck in 4WD low and lock the diff. Got it running so I could use the loader to load the BH tire in the truck. The trek across town wasn't too eventful and most if the ice patches were melted on the interstate. A semi local tire store in the industrial area near the interstate sold me a Deestone for $300 and $50 to mount. The guy that was elected to mount it put a ding in my rim with the first swing of the bead beaker hammer but not too bad of one. He didn't get a tip.
New decals. I have no asperations to repaint but I figured a new set of vinyl would improve it's appearance. Old ones were all scratched up. I made the decals from online photos as best I could. I have my own vinyl cutter.
Looking good. The new owner is going to be happy that you fixed everything for them
I had to change the same tire on mine and it was about the same price.
You’re lucky up here in Canada the fronts are about 850. each and the rears around 1000.each guess I’ll have to keep installing tubes for now or run on the rims
Oof!
Finally got around to touching up my boom and crowd arms. I wasted countless hours and $$$ trying to match the paint and finally ordered the factory stuff. I've become pretty stupid and wasteful in my senior years. The Ford New Holland CE Yellow Industrial (1981-1999) Spray Paint Part # M5771ASE5DS is a perfect match. The underside of the crowd where the thumb was is still irregular looking but it looks much better in color than it did in primer. You can't tell much about the crowd with the angle and shadows I took the pictures from. The underside of the boom was dented and had surface rust and it looks 100% better with paint on it.
That's friggin beautiful, but how you gonna explain that overspray to the project manager.