My 580ck gasoline engine is locked up. I had put some MMO down the cylinders about 2 months ago. So I tried to crank, nope froze. I borrowed an inspection scope and last piston is frozen, two look great, one not too bad the oil made it through. I can still see oil around the top of the bad one and it didn't work through. Been looking at all kind of penetrants and one says this is good another says not. Anybody have suggestions? I've tried trans oil/acetone in the past on stuff which was marginal in results. Looked on line and more people say to use PB Blaster. I saw that Kano thank makes Kroil has something called Exrust. It's expensive, like $32 for 12 oz. Anybody try Exrust? Plan to put a new penetrant in and let it soak a couple of weeks. I would take off the head etc. but I had just purchased this thing and need to get it to my place before anything major. Any experience, suggestions(practical..lol), or ideas I would certainly welcome. Thanks..
“I've tried trans oil/acetone in the past on stuff which was marginal in results.” That’s because you left out the correct ratio of Jet A/Kero/ULSD#1. Big Ed’s Red. Great stuff. Kroil will work if any thing will. Smells like cancer.
So what is the ratio and where do I get Jet A at? Can you pass me the secret recipe?...lol If I were to put, say a cup of penetrant down the cylinder, and put around 80# or more air pressure on it for a while hours/day/days/week I wonder if that would help force the penetrant. If there are no air leaks at the hose etc. should be able to tell if the stuff is working through if the pressure drops perhaps?.Your thoughts?
Can you get something solid down the hole you put the camera in? If so, I would turn the crank to get downward pressure on the piston and try a few taps with something to add impact to the equation.
Everything will work through the unfrozen parts and bypass where it is truly needed.
Big Ed’s Red. 1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later. * 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1 * 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits * CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent. * 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1. * (Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant.
Just the spark plug hole on the G159 gas engine 580ck. Don't think I can. Going to also pull front pump off to get at the bolt head for the balancer or whatever to get some leverage to work some pressure on it but try not to bend or break anything. No penetrant recipe though?...
use the starter hole and pry on the ring gear. If you need it broken loose, remove the valve cover, make sure the stuck one and it's pair both have the valves closed, remove pushrods if needed, rig up an adapter for those two spark plug holes to a grease fitting hose, fill the cylinders with oil and pump the grease guns, something will break free unless it leaks oil slowly, then step up to an airless paint sprayer, if that doesn't break it loose, you're taking the engine apart.
Tried the starter hole can't budge it but can only get a bit of leverage on it that's why I want to try the front if I can but have to take the pump off first so I can to the bolt try and move the crank from the front. Guess I'll see what happens and go from there. Nothing ever goes easy..
Thanks!
If the valves are closed you may try this. Make a adaptor to fit your spark plug hole and add a grease fitting to it. Now attach your grease gun and start pumping...
Sorta like this as long as it's not at the bottom of the stroke can take the valves loose to close then hook a hose from your Farm tractor outlet to the spark plug hole
Hire a rollback to bring it home and pull the engine out I hope you got a good deal on it (;
Kroil works. Not cheap but it works the best of any magical oils. If an engine is seized you are kidding yourself trying to free it up to get it running. You may get it running but it will not be a good engine after it has been rusted up.
Going to try Kroil first and see what happens..Hope it works, but expect nothing and your never disappointed..
if you look around a bit you can find kroil for about 40.00 bucks a gallon
This might interest.
Where did you find it at? Thanks
That is a controlled test. In my real world use Kroil is the best with PB blaster close behind. Liquid wrench I stopped using because these were so much better.
I have never used Kroil but I found it interesting in that video that Kroil produced the worst results.
I think he missed a great opportunity in that test by not measuring the torque or total time required to completely remove the nut from the stud. I'm sure there's a way to quantify the difference in products for complete lugnut removal. A heavily corroded stud will fight the entire way out, not just at initial breakout. There, the ability of the different products to break down the rust on the threads would really shine, and may produce slightly different results.
I have a 580K and I have the same problem. I just took the pump off to expose the harmonic balancer bolt. Guess what! No Harmonic balancer or bolt. Just a 1/2” pin to locate the adapter for the hyd pump. Don’t know what to do now. Yours may be different. I hope so.
Nope, same. Nothing on front same as yours. Tried Kroil no help so last hope I boiled some PB blaster and poured it down the 2 cylinders. Setting for a week now and haven't tried to see if it will work. Will update later.. If it doesn't work then more disassembly. The guy I bought it off of says not to worry about moving it yet and just do what I got to do..
not2bad ; Your 1st post said you have a 580CK is that correct ?
Yup 1971 580CK
If its stuck that tight and one other is near as bad, you may as well drag it out as will not ever get rings to reseat anyway. Corrosion down sides of piston skirt will score cylinder to hell and gone if ever moves so will either need a sleeve replaced or honed. Really surprises me to hear people trying to nickel and dime save these engines when are well past the point to do a full overhaul to get it worthy of work again.
Amen to DMiller's comment. When a piston is stuck that severely, it isn't worth breaking a ring-gear tooth or twisting off a crankshaft bolt when a complete overhaul is inevitable. The sleeve will prolly have to be cut off of the piston to prevent any damage to the connecting rod. IMHO.
Yeah doesn't look good for sure. One thing at a time. Such a pain. Oh well, my pain now...lol...sigh