Hey guys, I have a job coming up soon now that the weather Is getting better The ground Is sloping back to this wall, I'm going to be digging down to the footings, laying stone, and drainage pipe to free air I would also like to water proof this wall since Its opened, so my question Is What do you use for waterproofing ? Danny
I specialize in residential waterproofing Danny.There are literally hundreds of different ways and products to do this from reasonably priced to industrial,very expensive.After a thorough cleaning I use an industrial trowel-on bituminous cement[asphalt],placed thicker from the footing up,while still tacky I run 30lb. felt paper horizontally starting at the bottom,level it,seal the joint,run another course,and then apply an asphalt brush-on application.Proper drainage is paramount--make sure the holes in your pipe are app. 2-3'' below the top of finished basement floor so you're intercepting both wall AND floor water and of course run the solid pipe out to daylite.Run at least 12'' of CLEAN 3/4-1'' stone above the top of your footing drain pipe and cover it with fabric.I would try and regrade that yard so there's a positive pitch,at least a 1/2'' to the foot is preferable for grass. Any questions,feel free to ask. Good luck.
Thanks tuney, thats the first time i have heard of felt paper being used, But like you said, there are many ways to waterproof. I see some jobs up here using a dimpled membrane, I was wondering If this works ok........Also I have heard of Thoroseal, Its just needs to be brush on I think?? After a good presure washing.
Like Tuney be sure and re-grade the yard when you are finished in order to get the water to drain away from the wall. Pipe the gutters away from the house if possible. Many wet basements could be prevented and sometimes cured by piping gutters away from the house and positive drainage away from the structure. I am not up to date on the newest waterproofing products but what I have used on many SF of new construction basement walls is the sprayed on asphalt and either dimpled plastic sheets or fiberboard panels. I prefer the dimpled plastic sheets for two reasons: 1- I think they offer a better air-space between the backfill and waterproofed wall for water drainage and 2- they withstand backfilling with less damage and more protection of the waterproofing membrane. Then follow with 4" perf pipe and clean #57 stone, covered with filter fabric. If it's in the project budget or it's a wet area, backfill the entire wall with 12" of clean stone all the way to the top.
I will be grading It away from the building, The stone right to the surface I think will be In order here, good tip.....I don't want to spray, for the simple reason I dont have the gear for spraying, unless you can use a reg. paint spray gun, that I do have, and I do have a small compressor.....But I was hopping that there's a good brush on material only available Thanks for the pointers.............One more thing I need to know.......How do I build a shoring box.....for saftey (Trench cave In).......the trench will be 24" wide 20' long
I hired a sub to do the spraying, dimple sheets, pipe and gravel around the pipe. My crews did the backfill, compaction and extra gravel, if it was needed. You may want to check around your area and see if there is a subcontractor that applies this type of waterproofing and get a price. Good question on a trench shore for this type of work. All the work I did was new construction and we either sloped or benched the excavation which makes it much easier. Maybe someone else has experience with this?
I've been noticing this membrane more lately,actually I saw it yesterday at Lowes.I'm fairly certain it would drain down to the footing drain and protect your waterproofing system but so would fine bank run gravel or even pure stone likeCM 1995 suggests.Yes,Thoroseal gets brushed on,same as UGL.It's a lot quicker than my method but it's basically only paint thin,my way ends up app. 1/4'' thick or so and I've never had a callback in hundreds of completed jobs.Another good membrane is the green Rubber wall spray on application.You would have to sub that out as it's a protected franchise type deal.
Forget the trench box,there's just no practical way to get your work done.Trust me,you do not want to do waterproofing with only 2' of space---make it at least 2.5 on the floor tapering up to 3.5-4' wide and if it's app. 8' or more deep,definitely bench the top some to make it safe.