Hi all. This is the big crank seal on the back of Komatsu D57S track loader engine. I can’t seem to find anything around the shop that’s the right size. Any ideas ? Thanks James
What does the service manual show? If they list a part number for the tool, maybe try fleabay? Otherwise, if there's a decent picture, have a machine shop turn you out a tool.
Weld up some flat bar into a cross and use a hydraulic press to put it in. Just need thick enough bar so it won’t cave in and make sure it’s flat to the surface.
Front seal on D155A-1 engines go in super tight like maybe couple tons. On front can use a bolt with correct thread and pull in with an installer. Could do the same on the rear with a few bolts pulled in slowly, but probably fine thread metric bolts. If you get the right bolts just keep adding washers under the heads as the seal goes in. Simon C
I have not seen an inch only tape in forever. I went to the scale house this spring to grab a couple for my truck, and they were only metric. I said give an old guy a break, and at least get me some bilingual ones. I can tell I am becoming old when the younger guys discuss everything in metric. At one time it was a mix, but even my drivers license says I'm 175 centimeters tall
If you just want to tap it in head on down to plumbing supply and find a PVC fitting that size. Joe H
On smaller, less critical seals, I've used a brass drift and slowly tapped it in by going round and round the edge with light taps. If you have the old seal, use it upside down as a guide/buffer. May have to remove the rubber lip on the old seal but can help prevent distortion as effectively you're doubling the stiffness of the new seal. This can help you use wood and a hammer as the old seal is raising the hammering up past the new rubber lip. As mentioned, pvc fittings/pipe can be effective. I'll spend a bit of time wandering the hardware stores getting ideas before I make a purchase. Sometimes even oddball things you never think about like drain caps, caps for yard irrigation systems, etc. end up being the right size.
I have installed a lot of seals with a steel bar with holes drilled to match the bolt holes in the end of the crankshaft Using a ring machined to match the seal. A large seal like that you need to make sure its going in straight and the same depth all the way around. Is it a Teflon lip seal or rubber like material? Is there a separate wear sleeve?
Thanks everyone for the ideas so far. Got me thinking now. I pounded out the seal after I pulled off the flywheel housing. I was planning on putting seal in first then lower the flywheel housing back over the crank. Is this a bad idea? Should I be installing seal after everything is bolted back together? Just so everyone knows I put a speedy sleeve on the rear crank. The seal is just a standard double lip rubber seal.
I would put the seal in after installing the housing. Less chance of damaging the seal.
Agreed. But I would dry fit the housing and verify you can seat the seal with whatever route you decide to go. Once you verify you have the right tools and path forward, then apply your gaskets, sealants, etc. and tighten down your housing. Always sucks to un-assemble a freshly assembled system because something was missed.
I mounted many of Komatsu's housings and installed with block in horizontal position with guide studs to mount to block. That lip seal will have to be manipulated to be able to get it over the speedy sleeve. Better to mount housing first and only fight to get seal on after. Not sure on that model of block, but on some the holes in part of the flywheel housing have frost plugs inside to prevent transmission oil from going to engine oil. Bolt length has to be measured carefully. You can install housing with block as in your picture, easier with guide studs. Simon C
Simon mentioned a speedy sleeve, looks like you need on on that crankshaft. Joe H
Joe H. Speedy sleeve has been installed.
Those look like metric 14 or 16mm fine thread holes in crank. Your sleeve looks well put on providing that the old wear mark is about half way under the new sleeve. Dont want new seal running on the edge. Hope you used some loctite under the sleeve to seal imperfections. Simon C
16MM 1.5 on the threads. I didn't use loctite under the sleeve.
If there was no scatches on the crank, you will get away with it. I have used Loctite 290 Penetrating grade for after assembly on D155 rear seals and never had any oil leak throughs. I have all the fine and coarse guide studs, they are very handy. Does your flywheel housing have any bolt holes with frost plugs blocking the block side from oil transfer. They are common on some models. Very hard to troubleshoot if leaking. Simon C
That looks like a thick factory wear sleeve not a Speedi Sleeve?
This is what I installed.
Did you buy your parts from your dealer? How well do you get along with your dealer’s service department? Milton CAT in Clifton Park at one time would rent special tools to customers who had accounts set up with them. Treat this as a priveledge; don’t abuse it by damaging the tool or delaying return of the tool to them. This might better involve having one of their service techs come to you and install the seal on an hourly rate, too.
Did you put a Speedi Sleeve over a replaceable wear sleeve?
eastroad. I bought the engine rebuild kit out of the US. None engine stuff I got online. I order some stuff from the Komatsu dealer up in Calgary which is a couple hours north of me but they can't always find what I need since the machine is a 1987 model. I haven't talked to them about specialty tooling. I doubt they would be interested in helping me out. I have a heavy duty mechanic friend that lives in Calgary that said he would come down and help me out. I'll get everything cleaned up and wait for him to come down. Thanks
mekanic. No I put the speedy sleeve directly on the end of the crank. Did I screw this up? Hope not.
Maybe the pic is confusing us. The 2 wallered out hole look bad and I don’t see a speedy sleeve. I see a wear sleeve.
I thought that too. I see a wear sleeve starting at blue arrow and speedy sleeve at yellow arrow.
I'm thinking that the "ridge" the blue arrow is pointing to is just the edge of the chamfer on the end of crank. The yellow arrow does point to what looks like a bigger step than I might expect to see from a Speedi-Sleeve, but could just be caused by the way the light is hitting it.
That blue arrow is likely where the flywheel recess fits over the crankshaft flange
My arrow is a little too far in. What I was pointing out is the visible line on the flat face of the crankshaft.looks like a sleeve has been installed at some point. If it was a cat it would look exactly like that with the wear sleeve still on.
kshansen and 56wrench win the prize! The pic of the flange was taken on an angle which makes the top holes look oblong. I just used brake clean before I installed the Speedy sleeve. I should have cleaned it a little better.