Darn title... JOB ON, not jabon. Anyway, I figured I better get some opinions on what I should expect so I know if I'm geting a deal or getting hosed. Wasn't sure if I shoud start a new thread, but the details of my issues are in my other post "pouring in fluids.....". There was a little coolant in the oil when I drained it and the machine pumps the coolant out the radiator.
Well I just read your other post, sounds like you just picked this up? With that much coolant in the oil, the bearings in the engine could be pretty worn, head should be pressure tested, maybe a valve job, or more,. You seem like your in a hurry to go dig something but if you don't slow down and fix stuff correctly the first time when you do finally get it together you ain't gonna have no money left for fuel. Do you have a mechanic you can trust by you? Swapping a head gasket can be done in a day, repairing it correctly may take more my friend.
Ya that's what I was affraid of. No I don't know any trustworthy mechanics by me. Like you say, I might get someone to fix the head gasket and then I go to use it and it'll dump a cam shaft. Or who knows what else. I need someone I can trust to go over the whole machine so I know where things are at. But I have about $1k to do all that.... So instead of making money on the side, it's looking like I just wasted a bunch. At least until I can afford the repairs. This looked like a good idea over buying some Kubota that's barely bigger than my lawn mower for 12k. Man I'm crabby! Ha.
I know what you mean, hope i didn't come off as a smart ***, just tryin to give you some insite, We see alot of owners with more repairs than the machine is worth. If you are getting books, can slow down, follow directions, pull some wrenches, its not rocket science. Most mistakes are made by rushing or being afraid to ask for help and just guessing. There are alot of smart people on here willing to help those who are willing to take it overworked
I would expect the repair to be in the $1000 dollar range if all your hard parts are good. I would also expect 3-5 days at the shop to get the head taken care of at a machine shop and reinstalled. If the shop has a complete machine shop they could have it done in a day if all the hard parts are good. If you do it yourself the gaskets and fluids should be in the $100 dollar range and because you dont have anything in the labor you can take a chance on the valves needing ground and reinstall the head as is. As far as trying to get a deal from a shade tree mechanic sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes you get screwed.
No no, I didn't think you were trying to be a smart ***. I was just all bent out of shape. I found a tractor repair shop not far from me (about 30minutes) that comes very highly recommended. Gonna set up an appointment Jan 2nd. Hopefully get it in there that first week of Jan. I'll be flat broke, but at least I can feel good knowing it's done right. I'll try to do the non-motor work all myself. Thanks again!
That's what the shop told me. He said best case $500, worst case $1500. This guy is supposed to be great. I guess he used to run the larger Deere service center but now has his own place.
They need to pull the oil pan and hand pump the rad before removing anything. it is so important to check the lower end for pin holes in the sleeves and leaking o rings around the liners. Also the head has freeze plugs under the valve cover that could also be leaking other than the head gasket. If you try to go in it yourself, the rocker arm assembly has a bolt with a drilled hole for the oiling of the rocker arms and shaft so pay attention when you remove the bolts that they go back in the same holes. If you have a pin hole in a liner you can bet the rest are close, and will need to be replaced also.
I sure don't have enough faith to ever use that term!
Yeh, thats why I use the phrase diag is done when machine is up and running. You never know what you will find.
Thanks sheepfoot! I'll be sure to ask him if that's going to be checked. As for the best case/ worse case quote, he did say that was just a guess, and that you never know until it's done. I'm afraid to have him look at the brakes. I doubt I'll be able to afford them at the same time.
Got the 580c in for repair. Turns out it's a cracked sleeve, not a head gasket. They are going to give me a quote Monday for doing the one cyl vs all 4. I'm leaning towards just having all 4 done while it's apart. Make sense? Then it's nice and fresh...? Once I see how much that costs, hopefully I can afford the brakes too. Can't wait to get it back so I can finally try it out!
I would say if your other liners are in good shape, give them a hone and a set of rings. If they are pitted, scored or worn, go for all 4. If you use your old liners, I would suggest pulling them and o-ringing them when you put in new piston rings.
Thanks. I should hear back from him today or tomorrow when the motor is apart the rest of the way and they get a good look at everything. Fingers crossed!! Now I'm really hoping the diff lock isn't froze up and the brakes aren't going to cost a ton.
Find out any good news on your engine? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Yep, I just spoke with the repair shop today and he's thinking about $2500 unfortunatly. He says that if we're gonna have a whole new upper half, then we might as well do it right with new lower bearing kit too. But....I only have 2k right now. He's gonna get back to me tomorrow with a more exact price. I might need to sell something. I REALLY hope there is nothing else majorly wrong with this machine!!
If you have to go that deep into it, I would think you could find an in-frame kit fairly reasonable. There are quite a few aftermarket suppliers on the internet these days. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
A quick look on eBay yielded a kit for $675+$30 shipping for an in-frame with sleeves, liners, bearings, pistons, rings,gaskets, etc. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Thanks. So I take it " in frame" means not pulling the motor? I guess I'm kinda stuck now since they have it apart already and I had to have them come and pick it up. I still don't have a trailer for it. Or a truck big enough to pull it. I think that price included injectors also. Apparently they were in rough shape. I just really really hope the rear end is solid. Another big bill, or something else I can't do myself would probably push me into selling it. I'll only have about forty five hundred into this tho. After this bill of twenty five hundred or so. So I think I could still come out ok . ( For some reason all the numbers come out as symbols from my phone)
That is still very reasonable for a good running machine. If they have not ordered parts yet, see what the prices are for their rebuild parts. They may be ordering OEM parts. I'm sure they are adding some markup, but you may be able to get them to look at aftermarket suppliers. In-frame rebuild kits are not always used when the engine is still in the machine. It depends on what is around the engine. I was lucky on rebuilding the engine in my 955L as I could drop the belly plates and get to the bottom of the engine without pulling the entire motor. Generally, they do not include the entire gasket kit or any valve train parts. It includes enough gaskets to pull the head and pan off and includes bearings, pistons, liners, and rings.
Ya I really can't complain. I'm still going to have a lot of machine for the money. It's just that right now I really don't have the money for this repair. Oh well, I have most of it anyway. I'll pull the rest out of someplace. I can't wait to play around with this tractor. Move some snow etc. After I get it back with a fresh motor I think I'll pull the front wheels off and grease the wheel bearings. It would be nice if those had a zerk/grease fitting also. (unless I just missed it) The only other thing I'm sweating is if the diff lock works. I hope so! The 580 should be happy it's in the shop right now, instead of sitting outside. We're back to this frigid sub-zero temp crap here in WI.
I am sure we are not as cold down here, but it is 9° and dropping today. I had a little time to work on my machine last night before this great weather... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Sorry, I just saw your question kb9tci, when I logged in to post an update. Yes, I just got the 580c back home 2 days ago. The piston sleeve was cracked and was going to run 2000 bucks to replace, so while it's all apart I figured it makes more sense to do a total rebuild for 1000 more. But we couldn't get rebuilt injectors so they had to be new. All in all I paid 3507.29 new pistons, sleeves, lower bearings, head re-working, new injectors, fresh filters, and a new tank heater. I feel like I'm forgetting something.... Oh and I had them drain and fill the rear end while they had it. But now the thing is leaking all over the driveway...lol. The seal by the dif-lock seems to be where the newly full axle oil is leaking from and also the power steering seal behind the pump/tank. Any way to clean the surface around the seals and spray on some sorts stop leak? I'm flat outa money for now and can't afford to fix anything else for now. The rear is probably leaking 2oz a day and the steering about 1 oz. ??