Hello, Im seriously thinking of buying this 1980's Case 580C-CK Construction King. I am new to backhoes, but I work in a diesel truck shop so I have a good understanding of mechanics... But I have some basic questions. First of all, what does the C-CK stand for? Construction King? I haven't run it yet, and I wasn't able to talk to the owner of the hoe, but I did snap some pictures and I was hoping you guys could tell me more about what Im looking at. There are 4 foot pedals in front, (right to left).. Do I have this right..? Accelerator, combo brake, right brake, left brake. ? Looks like it has the hydraulic power shuttle. There is a column shift on the left side of wheel, front middle and rear positions.? Does the hydraulic pump run both the hydraulics and the transmission, or is it separate? What is the column shift that is on the right side of column? Has a 4 speed transmission. Is there a low/high switch anywhere? Or is it just one speed? Is it OK to start out in 4th gear, or do you start from 1st? What is the rod on the floor near the accelerator pedal? Diff lock? Does it need to be in gear to run the hydraulics? There is a push/pull lever rod on the dash, I assume this is throttle for hydraulic use? What PSI does the hydraulic pump put out? Low RPM, high RPM? The classified add says "strong engine, hydraulics work, no leaks, but weak transmission". Any idea what might be the cause of that weak tranny? Low line pressure? Thanks for any and all replies. I will have MANY more questions for you if I buy this thing. Tim http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/1.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/2.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/1.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/2.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/1.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/2.jpg
Well startting with the pedals fist from l-r is the brake left one and right one then the full brake then the gas pedal . under the l&r pedals is the nutral switch which must always never works then the one infront of the gas is the posi-Diff. to lock both rear wheels On the colum the left is f-n-r then the right is gas pedal on the colum for running the hoe The push pull is your fuel shut off heaven know about the trani I had a'76 580C std hoe and it would start out strong then die when roading had it cheaked out was told all gears looked good. but on site it was strong as an ox so I would not worrie to much about it. your hydro runs off the pump in the fron of the engine you do not have to be in gear to run the hoe but don't see why you would'nt be anyway. This machine is clasified a 580C the ck is just what you stated construction King which do not see anymore on the new machines. I belive this is a great machine to get your feet wet in the tlb's very heavy machine and vet srtong cage,very simple machine no high tech you will not win any races with her but she will do everything you need to do and still make you some $$ .
thanks for the reply what does the neutral switch do? used for?
Puts the shuttle in neutral. :cool2 (Yeah, I know that was a smartass reply. I couldn't help myself. Sorry.) To your question of whether you could start out in 4th gear--Maybe, but it would be rather abusive. That's what the neutral switch is for. Start in 1st or 2nd, and when the time comes to upshift, you press the button on the floor and it acts like a clutch. Shift the tranny, and let off the button. As Cat320 said, they aren't very reliable. It's just as easy (assuming you're coordinated enough to be an operastor at all), to shift the shuttle into neutral with the handle there on the left, shift gears, and then shift back into forward. Maybe. But I'd be sure to worry just enough.
digger that is exectly the way I shifted mine lol. alot of fun when roading holding the wheel shifting to nutral then shifting the gear all at the same time ,I did it too much . oh one more thing I had a problem with the E-brake not working too good and loosing the right side brakes . but I ran it anyways you just have to be pretty good at driving it.
OK, that makes sense. Figured there was a way to shift without taking it out of drive.. Thx..
Machine looks like it's in good condition, extendahoes are great! Love the C model too!!
the seats on those were not there best feature, roughf ride for sure
Classic CK model. Extendahoe lever , with right outrigger lever tucked inside. The old CK and C models were hard to beat. Tough and durable for sure. One drawback was the heater in cab models. They mounted this squirrel cage type heater at aboput butt level than could only warm your gloves if they were laying on them, then they would fogg the windows to boot!
OK, i took it for a spin today. The good: All hydraulics work great. Has a new hydraulic pump. Front bucket lifts wheels off ground easy at Idle. The outriggers also lift rear wheels off ground easily at Idle. Engine starts easily and sounds great. No leaks of any kind. I dug a small hole with the bucket and works great. Moved some gravel with front bucket no problem. Buckets stay in position with engine shut off, no leaks. Problems I found: Differential lock does not work. With rear tires off ground, in gear, only the right tire spins. Couldnt get the left tire to spin at all. Diff lock does nothing. The rod goes down with moderate pressure, and comes up on its own, but no results. Tried in all gears and foward and reverse, no lock. Right brake does not work/is extremely weak. Only the left brake is stopping the loader. Transmission gear shift rod is loose. It was hard to figure out what gear I was in. I didnt drive very far. There was a grinding noise coming from the left rear axle at times. It didn't sound good, and I have no idea what to think of it. Didn't get a chance to try the neutral switch shift foot lever. One small crack on right side frame of front loader. Parking brake not the strongest. With trans in 4th gear, with brakes full applied and full throttle, the engine revs to 2300 rpm. Is this normal, or is it too high? This is referred to as the torque converter cut out speed or something? So what do you guys think about the differential lock and brake problems?? And the grinding noise in the left rear axle..? Hard or expensive repairs?? Thanks in advance for all comments... much appreciated! Tim
Well as far as the brakes I had the same problemand the E-brake is on that side I never did anything about mine I had got the schmatic and it looked like a nightmare to fix with all the springs and stuff.I ran mine for a long time with just the left.the frame crack does worrie me I guess depending on where it is if you can weld and plate it.The trani mine did make some noise too I think it was awhile ago that i had it but ran fine ,it would start to make noise in 4th then start to slow down like the brakes where applied to mine anyways.The differental is tied into that right side. There is somrthing on the top i had to replace a wheel cylinder it had greas fittings on it. this a schmatic for my '76 so yours might be different but it will give you an idea what is involved.
The parking brake looks messy, im not too worried about getting that fixed. But having only one side of brakes makes it annoying. Is each side on its own system? Do they share the same master cylinder or are they separate?
Separate master cylinders, one for each side. The single brake pedal (the one next to the accelerator pedal) is just linked mechanically to actuate the individual left/right pedals simultaneously. The brakes are in a set of housings on the sides of the transaxle, with shafts that come out into them, rather than being located at the wheels. Mine had a bad seal on one of those shafts that let the brake housing fill with gear oil...
Brakes like that are not uncommon on the old hoes, the K models is where Case really got their heads together and made good brakes, so I've heard. I have never used a K and never will, don't like that model. E-brakes are also not very useful in the late hoes. Some work, some don't.
both pedals "feel" right, they both have the same resistance as each other, but the right one doesnt have much effect on the wheel. it takes all my weight on the one bad pedal to make the loader slow down, and its not enough to stop the machine. the left however will lock the wheel up with ease. Ive pretty much decided to buy this thing, but Im going to try to talk the guy down in price, knowing that this thing has issues. This is in Fairbanks Alaska, and hes asking 14k. Probably sounds really high for you guys, but keep in mind, there is a huge need for equipment here and not enough equipment to go around. Prices are extremely elevated. Im going to offer him $10k and see how what he thinks... Im still open to discussions about what kind of work is needed to rebuild the differential and stuff... anyways thanks for the comments Tim
Let us know if you snag it and share more pics!
More pictures Can someone tell me what those switches do on the left dash area? What does the Drive/Neutral toggle switch do? On the other picture, what are the names for those different pins I circled? They are all pretty sloppy and will need replacement. http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/9mod.jpg http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm327/boomvan666/7.jpg Thank you
Can't help with the pins, as I'm a newbie. However, I appreciate the your good questions - I'm learning a bit here.
old and in need of a new one preferably a cat or Jonh deere
The seats are rough.. I just put a new seat in mine -got it at the local case dealership for just under $200