:beatsme Today after using the hoe when I swung the seat back around to drive the backhoe I noticed oil was leaking out of the center of the steering wheel and dripping on the floor. I wiped it up and it seemed to stop while driving or operating the front bucket, but when I use the hoe for a bit it starts dripping again.
probably the seal leaking where the steering rod goes into steering hyd. motor,, moisture may gotten thur the center of steering wheel,, maybe the center cap is missing/leaking on wheel
Yeah no center cap on the wheel, so I guess I need a new cap, and a new seal. Can you tell which parts from this diagram? http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-580D-Loader-Backhoes-Parts/Steering-4L/STEERING-COLUMN-AND-CONTROL-VALVE-0YYT/ Maybe # 15 seal?
you will need to order the upper seal kit A47038 - now subs to 86585473. It will contain items 15, 16, 17, 18. It can be repaired without removing the valve. Remove the steering wheel & column. Remove the clip & pin for the shaft. Remove the dust seal & pressure seal snap ring. Using a screwdriver, rotate the shaft, this will pressurize the valve enough to pop out the bronze spacer. Remove the pressure seal. Clean out all the oil in the recess to refit the new seal - install with a little lube. The rest should be easy. :drinkup
Awesome, thanks for the step by step instructions :notworthy When you say remove the pin for the shaft, is that #5 roll pin in the diagram?
Yes, there are 2 of them. Upper one for the steering shaft & a lower on the valve. The lower is the one in particular.
So I may have screwed up. On the Coleman page I clicked on #15 Seal D70586 Replaced: A47038, but I didn't click on #16,17,18 because I thought they all came as a kit along with 15. Packaged arrived today and all I have is one seal, which I assume is #15, but has a number D70586. Can I get away with just replacing the seal I have, and reuse the ring, spacer, and dust seal?
...... the circlip/ retaining ring are often rusty & break during removal. You may get away with it, you won't know till you try. You should be able to purchase one from any bearing supplier, or even a handy pack from an auto parts store. The spacer & dust seal aren't really an issue.
So I guess the parts diagram is mislabeled since #15 seal, which I have goes on top of the snap ring, spacer, and #17, which must be the real pressure seal, even though it's labeled "Dust Seal". I assume replacing just #15 dust seal won't help me if the real pressure seal is #17. Also, my snap ring has no rust and seems to be in good shape, except there are no holes or anyway to grab it with snap ring pliers that I can see. I tried getting behind it with some small screwdrivers but no luck so far. :Banghead Steering wheel was a bitch to get off too, had to make a puller since the holes are so small and close together a regular steering wheel puller wouldn't work.
Got a close up pic of the snap ring, looks as if the "eyes" were broken off at some point in time.
So you need to get that broken snap ring out? Sharpen the smallest cold chisel you have, or sharpen a point on a nail set/punch, and try to break that ring in two or three places so you can pry it out. Or, if you can get any grip on it with the chisel/sharpened punch to pry out of the groove, see if you can get an O-ring pick behind the broken end.
For something that size a couple of O-ring picks would be my weapon of choice. To me it looks as though there were never any eyes on it in the first place - the hardest type of snap ring to get out.
Cuss words... lots of cuss words... and usually a couple pinched/cut fingers or thumbs....
Especially when the pointed end of an O-Ring pick lands in the end of your finger ........
Plenty of choice words for whatever genius decided a snap ring with no holes was a good idea for anything :beatsme ointhead :Banghead It wasn't broken, just never had any means of grabbing it. After poking at it with picks for half an hour or so I got out the drill, drilled a small hole in the top of the housing so I could get a pick in behind the snap ring and pry it out. Success! :drinkup Started up the tractor and turned the shaft a bit, the oil pushed the spacer right up, and I was able to pull the old seal out the rest of the way with a pick.
Little Yankee ingenuity there, well done! :usa
The seal kit with the proper seals showed up yesterday, I got it all back together and am finally running leak free :drinkup Well, at least no leaks in the steering box
I was thinking it was the wrong Case spec steering wheel oil....wrong viscosity or additive package kind of thang...Case IS known for some weird specs.....like having steering wheel oil.
Well it's not supposed to be steering wheel oil, it's supposed to stay in the pump.
You better check with Case on that; I can swear I've seen Case Steering Wheel Oil at Sam's Club...in a 55 gallon drum. And there were a couple of pallets of it, so it must have been a popular oil....
That was kind of a joke, (not a good one obviously), meaning the oil isn't supposed to be in the steering wheel, but in the steering box. But it brings up a question, I thought the fluid was the same type as the rest of the hydraulics?
Should be the same; it's the wet brakes in the rear axle that needs the correct, special oil. If you have a shuttle trans, those will usually use a special fluid for the wet clutches. Ford has specced 134 oil for everything except the engine, but's Case-New Holland now. So there might be some new ideas about oil I should learn, I don't use the hoe very much, so I'm not changing or topping up the fluids.
As far as I can tell the steering pump is part of the main hydraulic pump and pulls oil from the same tank. At least the ones that have a loader. Without a loader there is a separate steering pump. As far as the brakes, from what I've read Case also specifies hydraulic fluid, not brake fluid. If you use brake fluid in the brakes it can cause problems.