Hi, My 1988 JD 310c has the worst brake chatter ever! I'd like to hear from everyone about brake chatter.... even if you had an experence dealing with brake chatter and if you got rid of it? or will it go away with a better grade oil like Amsoil ATH at $140.00 for a 5 gallon bucket, and I'd need 4 buckets... Here is my story on what happened to me, which is a bit of a raw deal because if I knew what I ended up with I would not have bought it... I was hearing from the John Deere dealer and many others that the brake chatter on my 1988 JD 310c TLB is normal. So I just got the machine and figured it would be okay, because I went with what everyone said... I did test drive it a little first before buying it and didn't seem that bad... but when I was using it for the first time I found was I have a very bad case of the rear wheels ready to fly right off the rear axle from vibrating so violently hard, it was upsetting thats how bad the rear wheels were shaking, it has to be damaging the entire rear end and what ever seals from the way the rear wheels are vibrating extremely violent, then I took a look at the huge file that came with it of the service records to find the rear seals had to be addressed a few times at some point in time, one rear axle seal was noted it was popping out... and this chatter was with the slightest pressure for every second on the brake pedal. So I changed the HYD fluid from the axle and storage box, I didn't realize I should have drained the reverser as well, so 2 gallons of the very dirty oil was still left behind. So changing the Hyd. fluid made a pretty good difference, but it still has a significant chatter that still bothers me.... Now why didn't everyone tell me to check and change the HYD. fluid? I know I have to change the Hyd. fluid one more time to finish flushing out the 2 gallons I missed in the reverser, and plus the 2nd flush will do it good because the old oil was pretty bad... I strongly believe from the prior service records the guy never changed it and said he did... I'm waiting for the manuals to see how many hours it needs to be changed. I'm hoping to get a better result this 2nd time around with changing the Hyd. fluid... then if the brake chatter gets even a little more better but is still there I was thinking about using Amsoil, it claims to be the best oil out there over all other comapanies, but it's $140.00 for a 5 gal bucket, and I need at least (4) 5 gal. buckets... thats a lot of $$$ if it don't work? thanks for any advice and help... Joe
ohh brakes This machine was probably roaded a lot, and the oil wasn't changed enough its that simple. You don't need any fancy oil in this machine just run the Deere Hygard, change your transaxle oil every 500hours on this machine. The manual may say different, but trust me do it at 500. First thing is first, your brake disks are warped and probably need to be replaced. However you can greatly reduce your chatter by simply getting your oil clean again. I have had this bad boy apart a few times and its not all that hard to work on, but you need to be aware its not a novice job. So start by running the machine about 10hours and replace the oil again. Let it run for another 100-200hours and see if you still have significant brake chatter. If you do then you will need to pull the axles off and replace the brakes.
Thanks for the insight... I hear you when you say doing a brake job its not for the novice.... but I need to ask you somethings and give you a little of my background, so perhaps you may know if I can most likely do this brake job my self being I use to be an auto mechanic for the past 33 years, or will it still be a first time concern to be able to handle it myself? Just to mention a little of my back ground is I have done everything that can be done to fix, rebuild and overhaul any car and light truck out there? I've pulled many engines, trans, axles, and rebuilt quite a few from scratch, I've got a lot of time put in with some serious heavy weight automotive repairs and rebuilds, because I use to work for a GM dealer back in the day, so back then GM reps did not pay to replace, only to rebuild and repair.... plus we were well known to do major rebuilds and heavy repairs that most surrounding auto shops would not do... so my only mechanical background is with cars and light trucks... I believe my largest socket and wrench is 1-1/4 inch.. or was it 1-1/2 inch? so I'm not sure if I'd be okay with the tools needed to do the job, I still have my two large roll around too boxes filled with tools, I have a lot of Mac tools before they started calling it Matco tools, and I have snap-on tools... So with that said I don't know one thing about what I'd face doing a brake job on this machine... I'm more worried about securing the backhoe to work on, because I got the backhoe to build my garage, so I have no garage to work inside, or any black top surface to work on, so I'd have to jack up this backhoe on gravel like soil, this is what has me worried.... so lets say I get past all the setting up of the machine to get it up in the air safe and now I can take off the rear wheels... is this something I can handle on the dirt floor outside? or is it something like I need a concrete floor to roll a jack around as I pull off the axle housings?... or is there something like an access cover on top of the rear axle letting me release the axles to pull out and the actual axles where they are bolted does not split? ( i know wishful thinking)... I was looking at the axle quickly, it seems like I'd have to split it on both sides where it has all the nuts going around on both sides, which is something that looks pretty heavy needing a smooth concrete floor? I am taking your advice and changing the Hyd. fluid right now for the 2nd time... lets hope that shuts it up.... Oh yeah, I want to ask you, when you say the brakes are most likely warped would I feel a pulsating pedal when applied if they were? And also to note I just now read the file on it and see that at 8169 hours it looks like it had a break job done.... right now I have 8983 hours on it... so I hope not too much damage was done from neglecting to change the Hyd. fluid..... its too bad at the end of its ownership they let it go to crap, because its been very well cared for, I really like this machine, its in great shape otherwise...
You need something to hoist the axles up and slide out, crane even a cherrypicker would work if you had stable smooth ground. Normally in the shop we use a large tranny jack with stabilizer feet that attach to the axle housing. Sounds like you would have all the tools you need, maybe cutting it close. Without a crane or stable smooth surface you really are asking for a headache. I would think about employing your local dealer or a Mobil mechanic with a crane. As far as your pedal pulsating goes, that sounds like a hydraulic problem maybe a priority valve issue/brake valve issue. To be honest you may really want to have a dealer look at it. I know that's expensive, but you may end up turning your wheels. You need to install gauges and take readings, you definitely need the manuals to perform these tests and possible repairs. I would diagnose your pedal pulsating issue first before going on to removing axles. Your hydraulic problem may be causing your chatter, hows the steering on the machine? Does it feel spongy, weak, or slow? What about loader, WOT boom up and steer the machine at the same time. Does steering slow down or does boom slow down?
Oh no!... I'm sorry to have mis-lead you...., my brake pedal does "not" pulsate...., I was asking that question if I would have a pulsating pedal if my brakes were warped because you had mentioned something on my brakes might be warped..... Because on cars when the metal rotors are warped the pedal does pulsate on cars.... (I know, I'm comparing apples to oranges) I hear what you say and agree... I'm worlds apart here with my background being cars..... I understand what you were saying, it's a world of its own this backhoe and the way it works and how it gets fixed.... If I took it apart its like learning how to walk again, I can do it but would take a long time and to deal with the snags.... I do have a 2 ton professional roll around floor jack with wheels, I can modify it to hold what ever... and I have another 6 ton hyd. stationary floor jack that you pump with a small handle, the base is not all that wide.... (I don't think I'm going to do it without help from someone in the neighborhood that knows about this)... I talked with the JD dealer and I asked him to give me an idea of what it will cost, he said between 3 thousand to 6 thousand.... and where I live there are not too many others that I know of right now that do this, I need to get out there to see where else I can bring this machine if I decide to have it done. I know of a construction company that does all their own repairs.... I'll find out more later... I didn't get a chance to change the Hyd. fluid today like I wanted to... tomorrow I'll do it... Let me ask you.... can you give me an idea of what are the few main components that make up the brake system? like what stops the axle, is there a round rotor disc bolted onto the axle? and you have some sort of brake caliper piston that squeezes/pushes a pad or block of carbon high strength steel? like is it steel on steel for stopping power? or is one or both brake pads some sort of high grade carbon/steel? thanks...
sent you a p/m
i've had it happen before. if the axle fluid is dirty, i'd change it. then again after running it a bit to get rid of more dirt.
thanks skata.... I'm going to do that again today change the fluid for the 2nd time... I can't believe why anybody would let the fluid get as disgustingly bad as it was when I first changed it....
Hope you get a handle on your brake problem, but I must comment on your requirement of a workshop with a concrete floor as against good Old fashoned FIELD SERVICE. Sometimes, gears in components like final drives, fail in bad working conditions and bad places, then must be stripped on-site to avoid further damage. Jacking and support can be achieved by using large timbers as a base, then a working platform can be made from plywood for wet areas. Tarpaulins can be erected for rain protection and then you have a perfect FIELD WORKSHOP. Heavy lifting today can be done by a large choice of excavators, with no need to set up field cranes from timber beams.................You blokes never had it so good!!!!.......C ya........Ray
Good point Ray, I can remember a repair my dad made on a bulldozer clutch. They dug a trench on a hill and placed a machine on either side to support a log between them. The bulldozer stayed in the hole where it's clutch slipped for the last time. Steel survey bars were used to lift and pry back then, and the wooden block was an important tool. The good hardwood ones were carefully protected from the weather and ants . A lift might take several hours to complete with hydraulic jacks working in tandem. Phil
skata, when you had that happen before was it a pretty good case of brake chatter? and did it go away? because now that I changed the Hyd. fluid for the second time I noticed the chatter going away a some more..... so now its not all that bad when lightly braking where before it was, now its at the final end of braking like when going backwards slowly as I creep is when its real bad and the rear wheels shake way too much for my taste.. I can't help it that I want my vehicles in great shape....
I hear ya Ray.... I'm no stranger to being on my back in the dead of winter out side on the road fixing the only means of transportation I had... I can't count all the repairs I've done out on the road.... now I'm building my garage after living here for 23 years with out a garage always having to work out side on the gravel driveway. I'm getting tired of only being able to work on my cars & trucks in the summer time... my old bones aren't letting me lay down out side anymore..