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The engine serial number tells me this tractor is a diesel. The 4202 in the engine serial number means 4 cylinder 202 cu. in. If you look at the pages that Diesel Dave sent it says that the diesel is 202 cu. in. and the gas is 180 cu. in. I think this engine would have a Roosa Master injector pump. The timing marks you are talking about can be hard to see. It may be easier to take off the cover in front of the timing gear and see if it is turning in there. There should be a little cover you can take off to unbolt the timing gear on the front engine cover in front of the injection pump. If the gear looks ok and is turning, the pump is turning unless the shaft is broken and that is unlikely. I think the plastic or nylon piece he is talking about is a nylon ring on the governor. It is common for these to come apart in one that has sat for awhile. When this happens pieces can get stuck in the check valve on the return line on the top of the pump. They usually don’t run very good, run and die, or don’t run at all when this happens. The other thing that is common if they have sat for awhile is for the shutoff to stick in the off position inside the pump. You can take the top cover off of the pump and check that. Be careful there are little springs and linkages in there. You most likely will have to have the pump rebuilt. I would see if the engine will try to start on a little bit of starting fluid. If it will it most likely is in good enough shape to run, you just don’t know how well. At that point you could have the pump rebuilt, replace the fuel filters and put good fuel in it. It would be a good idea to at least have the injectors checked, if not rebuilt also. They can be gummed up from sitting. On a Diesel your pump and injectors are like your carburetor and ignition system on a gas. If you don’t know that they’re good, you’re just shooting in the dark.
I think the tractor is a John Deere 400. It is an industrial and it would be similar to a 2020 which is the ag version. I’m not sure what you mean about the dist pump and reason for a flywheel rotation tool. Can you explain farther?
Thank you for your response. That may be the answer to my problem. I did replace the pre NOx sensor. Here is where my confusion may come in. 3223-12 Aftertreatment #1 Intake Gas Sensor Heater Control Failure. 3233-12 Aftertreatment #1 Outlet Gas Sensor Heater Control Failure. I was looking at Aftertreatment #1 and thinking that it meant Pre NOx sensor and that After treatment #2 would mean Post NOx sensor. I missed the intake and outlet part and that’s what determines whither it is Pre or Post? I think I need to check the wiring to the Post NOx sensor and if it is ok replace the sensor. Is there anything else I should check also? These parts are $$$$. What do you think?
I am from the eastern part of the US. I see older trucks in magazines sometimes and they will call it a westcoaster. How would a truck be set up that would make it a westcoaster?
Thank you for responding, maybe you will be able to help me more. I have replaced the sensor. It comes as one unit, the sensor, harness and control module. It has 5 wires going to it, power, ground, CAN high, CAN low, and ground. The power and grounds seemed to check ok unless I missed something. From what I understand about the code, it means that the CAN message is indicating NOx sensor error (Open circut or shorted circuit of the NOx sensor heater. I highly doubt that the new senor is bad, the old one was probable good. What could be happening that the would cause the ECM to trigger that code? Is there some other parameters I should look at to understand what the system is doing? I don’t have CAT ET but I do have Diesel Laptops diagnostic tool.
This is another code it has now 2204-3 Auxillary Lever 1 Position Sensor Voltage above normal. I don’t think it is a big deal but it would be nice to fix it.
Update on the CAT 272D2. I found a broken wire in the wire harness to the lift angle sensor. Fixed the wire and that code goes away. I’m still having trouble with the code 3233-12. I followed the diagnostic test on pre. NOx sensor. It has 5 wires going to it. Power, ground, CAN high, Can low and ground. The power and grounds checked ok so I replaced the pre NOx sensor. It still runs for about 5 min. and then it throws the code and derates. You shut it off for a few mins. and it will start back up and run fine until it does it again. I’m not sure where to go from here.
I wouldn’t put anything in the floors either. It makes a problem if you break it off. Good lighting is well worth it. You can never have to much light in a shop. I liked the thought on bigger doors. They might be a little short unless all you equipment is smaller. A loft is nice, your floor space won’t fill up as quick. Just some thoughts.
Some more information on the machine would be helpful. It could be an electrical problem or a fuel problem. It sounds like it could be a bad connection in the fuel shutoff circuit. Have you replaced the fuel filters? Is it getting good fuel flow to the injector pump? Does it have an electrical fuel pump or a mechanical one? What year is the machine, I think that it is old enough that it is not common rail which will make it easier.
I agree, it looks like someone tried to rig it up in the past. Those machines in that series could have trouble with the pump mounting bolts coming loose. I’ve seen where the ears brake off of the pump mount. Sometimes they will brake the pump mount bolts. You may be able to just rebuild the pump with a seal kit and new shaft. I think it is a Sunstand pump. To keep it from happening again you will need to replace or fix all the worn parts: 1 Worn pump shaft 2 Worn flex drive coupler 3 Make sure all the motor mounts are good 4 Check the mount at the front of the pumps. I think there is a rubber mount there. 5 Make sure the pump mounting flange and bell housing flange that it mounts to are flat and true. If the surfaces are worn it can just work loose again. The surfaces may be able to be machined alittle to true them up. 6 Check the threads in the bell housing for the pump mount bolts for wear. If they are a little loose the bolt will have trouble staying tight. I think one I worked on we where able to drill it out and thread it to the next size bigger. 7 Use new Grd 8 bolts that are long enough to use all the threads in the bell housing but not hit the flex coupling. Use new Grd 8 thick flat washers. You can also use some blue locktite on the bolts. Tighten the pump to the engine before you tighten down any of the rubber mounts. That way the pump and engine can align good and square. Hopefully you don’t have to much trouble getting parts. It will be the same as a New Holland but I’m not sure what model, though it will have a different engine and related parts. Maybe someone else will know the New Holland model. It is not a quick job to do it right. Hope it goes well!
