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I agree on the load testers. The electronic ones run some kind of a test but I don’t think it is as good. A carbon pile load tester puts a load on it a lot more like a starter. I was working on a machine one time that would not crank very good. The battery tested fine. The cables and connections looked ok. When you cranked it the battery voltage pulled way down and the cables and connections got warm. It presented like a bad battery or bad connections. Spent some time messing around cleaning connections and stuff. Nothing helped. I finally decided to take off the starter and take it apart. Inside I found that part of one of the magnets had broken off in a wedge shape and was jamming between the magnet and the armature. Put on a new starter and it cranked fine. Some things I learned from that experience: The numbers don’t lie but don’t get confused by them. I could have replaced cables and battery and not fixed the problem. I wish I had checked the amp draw, but I did not think to at the time. If you are not familiar with a machine it puts you at a disadvantage. If you don’t know what is right for that machine it can be hard to tell what is wrong. Like if you don’t know what a good starter draws it can be hard to know if it its drawing to much. Sometimes you have to go with your gut instinct. And than like all things electrical, you can get to confident and it will turn around and bite you.
If an electrical connection is getting hot it is all most always a sign of a bad connection. One exception is when the brushings/bearings in the starter are bad and it is dragging. It can pull so many amps to spin it that it can heat up good connections and cables. It is always good to check the grounds. Only as many amps will leave the positive cable as can return through the ground cable. I’m leaning more towards a bad connection, cable end, or dragging starter than a problem on the ground. If a positive connection is heating up from high amp draw or a high resistance connection, the ground is likely able to carry the load. I have been wrong many times though.
Now that the hand throttle works, the costumer has just decided to use it that way and not spend $1350.00 on a new ECM and programing. I don’t like not being able to see a job to the solution, but if it was my machine I would probably do the same. Why spend that money just to make the foot throttle work, wait until it has bigger problems to replace it. Thanks for all the help guys!
So when the JD man reflashed the ECM, it made the dial throttle work, but still no foot throttle. Throttle live data is as follows: Foot Throttle: 0.55V Primary Throttle: 0.85V Secondary Throttle: 0.1V In the diagnostic display, it shows the throttles going from 0% to 100%. Foot and hand throttle, but the foot throttle will still not rev up the machine. The other machine like this that the foot throttle would not work on, the reflash fixed it but not this one. Don’t know what else to do but replace the ECM.
I’m wondering if the pump is not destroking like it should. Like it goes to full output when it doesn’t need to and then won’t go back to neutral when it should. Any ideas on how to check that? Is it controlled by pilot pressure from the control valve or is it all internal to the pump? It does have high flow. I think that it uses the same pump for that as the it does for the arms and bucket.
Hytran is like amber color with a slight reddish tint to it. Not sure if Ultra is the same thing or something different.
Welder Dave , I appreciated reading your last couple post. I never heard all that explained that well before.
One thing to think about buying used tanks, is make sure that you can get them filled or exchanged at your local supplier. I worked for a man that was going to be smart and get them cheaper. He bought a bunch of tanks some where but the local welding supply wouldn’t exchange them because they were not theirs. He finally found a place about 40 miles away one way that would fill them. I didn’t think it turned out that good of a deal. Just be sure you will be able to get them filled where you were hoping to. A lot of times the lease can be transferred from one owner to the next.
Torch setups can be expensive, especially if you don’t use them often. My best advise is to get what a good welding supply store in your area has. It may be expensive but you want them to still be there in 10 years. The brand of my outfit is SMITH. I think they are the best but there are other good ones out there. I would steer clear of a HF one. I have used one before.
Ok, I’ll look at all that when I get back to the machine. I just wonder if something is going on with that. It presents like the throttle problem that they can have, won’t rev up, no codes. I just haven’t had to go this deep in one to fix it yet.
No, I didn’t know there are two. The one I checked is on the right side just ahead of the HCU. It was a three wire plug. Where is the other one at and is it the same? I have three readings for the throttle in live data; primary, secondary, and foot throttle. Voltage at the secondary was 1.2 – 1.5V I think. After I cleaned the plug I think it was around .9V. Does it have to be below .6 – .7 V also? Reflashing the ECM did not help.
I went to work on the 333G today. I checked those plugs and found water in them, mostly X54. I cleaned and put electrical grease in all three X53 X54 and X55. Started it up and that took care of the problem. No active codes now but it still won’t rev up. I went in the service menu and checked under sensors. It shows both the pedal and the dial going from 0-100% and their voltage range. Voltage is within spec of the manual. I also checked the remote throttle plug and it was clean. Talked to a former Deere mechanic today and he is going to come and reflash the ECM.
Here is an up date on this machine. I found a broken wire and damaged connector at the cam sensor. I got them hooked together for now until the dealer gets me a new plug and terminals. That took care of the cam sensor codes. I than was able to do a DPF recovery regen. It only went for about an hour but it brought the soot level down to 0.2 g/L fuel based. ( I found that reading). That took care of the high soot level codes. I now have code 3251.13. A differential pressure sensor code. It is still in derate. There is another machine there that is running fine so I took the sensor off of it and tried it. Didn’t make any difference. I checked the power and the ground to the sensor and they are ok. One thing I noticed is the DPF inlet pressure is a negative number on this machine but it is not on the good machine. The DPF inlet pressure signal voltage is the same on both machines though. How do you get opposite readings but have the same voltage signal? Not sure what to do next. Machine HR around 1400 IIRC.
That code is for the lift arm position sensor. A very common code. Check the harness from the sensor all the way down the arm and behind the the cab to were it plugs in on the fire wall. That harness gets damaged alot. The wires can break inside the insulation and you can’t tell it from the outside. The attachment below should help.
