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So I loaded the parts cannon on the 299D2. I replaced the DEF return line and that took care of the code 4357-5. Went ahead and replaced the DEF header/manifold assembly. Cleared the codes and ran it though several cycles. No active or stored events. No active or stored diagnostics. Thank you for the help guys!
You can get 12v coils that are 1.5 ohms or 3 ohms. The 1.5 ohm coil needs a ballast resistor on a 4 cylinder engine the 3 ohm does not. I mostly use the 3 ohm coil and eliminate the resistor. It is hard to find a good voltage regulator any more. They’re all overseas junk.
Has it not been used for awhile? Did it have this problem when it was parked? Some more history about it would be helpful.
Yes it would have came from the factory 6v positive ground. Like Junkyard said you can look at the coil. If it still has the generator on it, it will most likely still be 6v. Putting a 12v battery in it won’t keep it from running, it can just blow the light bulbs, and mess up the voltage regulator. If it is a tractor that is going to be used much I would just switch it to 12v and be done with it. It would be alot more reliable.
Does the distributor have two wires coming out of it or just one? If it has two it has electonic ignition. I do not know of any way to tell a 6v coil from a 12v coil if it is not marked. It can be switched to 12v pretty easy. Put on an alternator, use the same starter, put in 12v light bulbs, do away with voltage regulator, and switch to NEG ground ect. I would just use points, not a big fan of electronic ignition.
It seems like my little experience is that they take longer to bring back when they are dead. Not sure if they last longer or not yet. Part of the problem may be that I know how lead acids act and AGMs act different and so I just need to learn how they act better.
I agree with you on the PACCAR deal. Nice truck to drive but a real pain to work on their batteries and cable system. All special components, nothing off the shelf, and all expensive. No just crimping a new end on in the field.
I always liked the Ford 9000’s. Especially the later ones with square headlights and low bunk sleeper, good looking truck.
In the diagnostic procedure for the code 3516-11 it says that after you replace the DEF header/manifold to clear the codes and reset the DCU. Does any one know anything about that? I have not replaced the header yet, I want to make sure I am not missing anything. Just hoping for so input.
So in your example with the wheel speed sensor would that code come up under diagnostic codes and events?
Just want to give an update on the 299D2. The code 4357-5 means the DEF return line heater current is below normal. There is three line heaters on it, so I compared the ohms reading on all of them. The return line one was open. I have the part ordered for that and that should fix it. For code 3516-11 I first tested the DEF and it came in at 35. I know it should be around 32.5 so drained it all out of the tank. I did not clean out the lines. It did not look bad at all, and I’m not sure it is really to far out of range, but I just want to be sure. I cleared the code and ran it for a little and the code came back. I checked that the sensor is getting power and ground. Also checked the CAN wires from it to the DCU and they seem to be ok. I think now that the sensor must be bad. Do you have to replace the whole header assembly? I’m not sure how sensitive these systems are. Am I missing anything?
I was wondering if one of you CAT guys could explain the fault code categories of codes on the advanced display to me better. Events: Active: This means that it is happening right now? Stored: This means that it has happened or is happening? Diagnostics: Active: This means that it is happening now? Stored: This means that it has happened or is happening? I know that what I just put is no quite right, but I’m not sure how else to put it. What is the difference between Events and Diagnostics ? I know they are not the same and it seems that some codes show up in one and some in the other.
Just wanted to give an update in the 331G. I checked the throttle dial and the foot pedal and they both seemed to be ok. I got a manual for it and I have diagnostic software but it is not Service Adviser so it is a little different. The manual says the signal voltage should be 0.7v – 4.4 from idle to full throttle. I was able to look at live data and the dial was working within the right voltage range. Then I looked at the foot throttle data it was staying around 2.7v. What I found was corrosion at the foot throttle plug. There was voltage getting from the power wire to the signal wire. Once I cleaned the plug up it works fine now. Thank you for the help mg2361 .
