[Mr. Wrench]

Very nice engine stand. I hadn’t thought about a jib on it, that is a good idea. I have two combine final drives I saved to make a stand I just have not yet.

[Mr. Wrench]

So any time they use “reference” voltage on sensors it is going to be 8V ?

[Mr. Wrench]

Thank you for the DEF line heater diagnostic procedure. The wiring diagram I have for the D2 series is # UENR5959-06. I’m not sure it covers that s/n range. Is it the right one?

[Mr. Wrench]

Where is this at, I want to go!

[Mr. Wrench]

That is kind of what I found. The magnet was ok on mine and you could wiggle it to make it work, but I could not see anything wrong with it. The roller switch should only cost $80.00 to buy it it’s self but instead your paying $1000.00 for it and I’m sure that is way more than it cost to make it. Why does CAT do that?

[Mr. Wrench]

Ya, they don’t make any more money, but they do look nice going down the road!

[Mr. Wrench]

I have heard that they can be hard to prime. What is the best way to prime them? Where would you hook in at?

[Mr. Wrench]

Can you list what you would use for like basic tuneup, to more in depth, to full out rebuild?

[Mr. Wrench]

I will give an update on the 272D2. All the problems are fixed. No active codes, no stored codes and no warning lights on. A very good feeling to have. Here is what the problems where: 350-3 The power wire to the sensor was broken inside the insulation. I replaced the wire between plugs and put new loom on the harness. 3233-12 The post NOx sensor was bad. I replaced the pre sensor first because I read the diagram wrong. Once I replaced the post sensor the code went away. 2204-3 The roller switch on the right joystick was bad. I could wiggle it and get the code to go away. I replaced the handle and that fixed that code. CAT parts are the best but they are the most $$$$$$ ! Thank you for all the help on this! By the way has anyone found another option for those roller switches? They are very expensive. I saw some talk about them on this forum in the past.

[Mr. Wrench]

The shutoff should be that solenoid with the wire hooked to it right above the injector lines there on the back. Run a jumper wire to it to see if it is a problem with the pump or the machine.

[Mr. Wrench]

I was wondering what specialty tools I will need to work on Detroits. I know I’ll need the injector height timing gauge. I have seen some tuneup tool kits, will I need all those things or do they just make it easier?

[Mr. Wrench]

What all configurations did they build the 92’s in?

[Mr. Wrench]

I did some work on a BOMAG recycler today. It has a 6v92 in it. I didn’t know they made 92’s in 6v’s. I thought only 8v and bigger.

[Mr. Wrench]

Nice picture! Any details on what they are doing?

[Mr. Wrench]

Have you tried the test light on the – terminal of the coil to see if it flashes while cranking? The points are a switch and if they are not switching the coil on and off it will never spark. The plug fires when the points open.

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