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Does it turn when you use any functions or just on drive functions. It sounds like you have hydraulic pressure bleeding into the steer circuit for somewhere else. I tend to think it is a hydraulic problem and not an electrical problem. You need to put a pressure gauge at the left steering output line on the hydraulic valve manifold to see if you are getting some pressure there when you move other functions. If not check the same outlet line down on the rotary manifold to see if it is happening there. You can download the service manual on Genie’s website to get the schematics. Their manuals are very helpful.
The pump drive gear should not be able to come unmeshed with it’s drive gear unless the front cover is taken off, so it should not have moved. Did you have it on TDC of the compression stoke on #1 when you took it out or was it on the TDC of exhaust? I would try what “imegravity” said and see what happens.
Is it a Roosa Master pump? How was the shaft indexed to the gear? A pin or key? Some pictures would be helpful if you are able.
I assume you are talking about a GENIE lift? If that is so do the other functions work ok? Some more history on it would be helpful to.
Do all the other functions work ok? What does it do when you drive it? Does the steering move at all?
Using a spark checker or hooking a plug up and putting it against the block only works if the plug is good. I don’t like to do it that way because if the plug is bad you’ll go crazy trying to figure it out. Better to use a spark checker that hooks to a plug wire and grounds to the block. Resistance of 8.66 ohms sounds to high to me. Did you check between the + and – terminals on the coil with no wires hooked up? It should be 3 ohms for a 4 cylinder engine and 1.5 for 6-8 cylinder engines so if you are in between those you should be ok with the coil. Too high a resistance and it won’t work very well and to low of resistance and it will burn points quicker. I don’t like to use a resister because it is just one more thing to go wrong so I get a coil with the right resistance. At this point you are just trying to get spark so use a jumper wire to get 12v to the coil and don’t worry about if it has a resister until you get it running good. Once you know you are getting good spark, if it still won’t try to start then you can check the timing and see if the plug wires are hooked to the right spots.
I don’t know what would be original on your 55 because I have not worked on one. The best way to find that out would be to study the parts and service manual. Maybe I can help you with you ignition system though. If you have not, put on good quality points, condenser, rotor and cap. NAPA brand is good, they should be able to get them for you if you give them the make and model of the distributor. Make sure the plug wires are good. Probably a good idea to replace the plugs also. Make sure you are getting 12v to the coil on the + side. Then take a test light and put it on the – side of the coil while you crank the engine. If the test light flashes while you are cranking it is working right. If the resistance of the coil is 1.5 -3 ohms you don’t need a resister on it, you can put 12v straight to the coil. Check that and let me know what you find and I can tell you more.
I wondered if that is how it would be because the volumeteric efficiency of a 2 stroke is not as good as a 4 stroke. That being said did they have lower compression than other diesels?
I was wondering about anyone’s experience with Jake Brakes on Detroits. Did they work the same way as on a 4 cycle engine? With every upward stroke being a power stroke they would have activated twice as much but where they stronger?
