Forum Replies Created
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Mr. Wrench
ParticipantI agree with Welder Dave. It makes it easier for air to work through the system if it is up on blocks and not trying to power the tracks. Don’t know if that is all your problem is but I would definitely try that.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantI don’t really see it going away. It puts the OEMs in a bad place. If they just drop it, in a couple of years it could all come back with a different administration. Then they are behind three years of R & D plus the cost of all the manufacturing changes. I wish it was going away, but I don’t see it happening. The most I see is them not going after deletes as much. What if companies are allowed to delete their trucks and in a few years that changes. Look at all the cost to reinstall or replace trucks and the parts bottle neck that could be. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantThat sounds a little excessive!
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantIt just needs a set of train horns that will shake the ground!
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantThis is the link to the oil we are going to use in the 6V53 that I am servicing. https://stores.buy1oils.com/engine-…q7w8ne8Gc1DJA8P03pFYoVqKcxc9EYgH0ArMDYKsJ2SuB Don’t know if it is good or not, but it seems to meet the specs. I don’t know what it cost, they paid for it. The auto parts store could only get me Rotella. Looks like this oil is made for Detroits or at least marketed like that.
February 18, 2026 at am9:08 in reply to: Asking for a friend, seriously. Will DEF fully separate from diesel fuel? #3110710Mr. Wrench
ParticipantJust wondering what farmers forum you where referring to.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantDo they rebuild alot of these?
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantI will try to post some pictures of it. I have never posted pictures some I’ll have to figure that out. Just hang on it may be alittle till I can. I have two sets of booster cables on it, 2ga. each. The clamps I think are the bottle neck of it, that is why two sets. You can only get so many amps through the clamps. If you are starting a truck with bad batteries you put both sets on to get the amp flow you need. If it is real bad sometimes I hook one set to the starter and one set to the batteries. For 24V I can unhook a ground cable to isolate one battery and use both cables. When you do that the alternator only changes on one cable though. Usually what we do for 24V is, we have another jump starter that is similar ( version 1 ) that we use. One jump starter hooked to each battery and make sure the vehicles are not touching. The machine doesn’t have a choice but to start. One of the keys to why it works so well is the engine driven alternator. Yes it keeps the batteries charged, but it allows you to rise the voltage about 2V and push more amps into the machine you are starting. If you are just starting cars and lawnmowers you don’t need to have the engine running.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantIt is heavy. That is why I built it on a cart. I can move it around the shop or outside. I load it in a Gator and go around the equipment yard. It is bullet proof, all off the shelf components no special parts. I may make one that is lighter and it would be easier to load. I think the little jump starters are good for emergencies or just one or two starts on something big. The lithium ones can do some pretty amazing things. If you are trying to get something running that has problems they just don’t cut it. How do you put the starting power of 3 group 31’s in something half the size of one of those batteries. To me the science is just not there. I use the one I made to start dead equipment at an action yard on sale day. We had been carrying around a bunch of jump packs to start things. About half way through they where all dead and you where just getting to the semi’s, then you where in a real mess. Now I can go around all day starting anything and it never goes dead. I realize that many of you guys would not be using one that way and need something more portable. One thing I have do on the lead/acid ones is after you start something if the alternator is working on the machine just leave the jump pack hooked up for a little bit and it will charge the pack back up. I don’t think I would try that in a lithium one. I could go on for awhile about experience of starting dead things.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantI have used a Goodall a little bit at one place I do some work. Have not seen it for a little though. Maybe it got stolen. If something is completely dead it did not seem to work but if the batteries are just really low it could start some pretty big stuff. Jump packs are ok for just here and there but my favorite jump starter is one I made. It is one a cart, has three group 31 batteries, 6HP engine that runs a 85A alternator, and two sets of jumper cables. You can start anything with it. Even 24v. Jump packs fully charged are 12.6V and go down from there. This jump starter keeps voltage at 13.6-14.6V.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantIt always seems like the buckets are little compared to the size of the machine.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantWhat brand of engine and generator head is it? I would love to hear more about your experiences working on generators. They have always been fascinating to me. I have been using my light tower and it seems to be working good. Don’t remember if I had all ready said but it has a Mitsubishi L3E engine and a Pancake generator head.
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantWhat engine do you have?
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantPost some pictures of your truck if you like. I like L9000’s!
Mr. Wrench
ParticipantAn update on the T650. I replaced the three bad injectors and three bad glow plugs. I did not see any glitter in the fuel rail or lines. That always makes me alittle nervous hearing the horror stories. Coded the injectors, primed up the fuel system, and it started right up. The kid messing with it before me had already drained the fuel and put in new. He also replaced the fuel filter. Talked to the costumer today and he said it has been starting good.
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