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You should be able to read the duty cycle on a PWM circuit with a volt meter that reads duty cycle, but I agree the best way to look at a PWM circuit is with an oscilloscope. Checking duty cycle would show if there is activity and if it is changing but would not show you the quality of the wave form.
I use Jaltest, still learning what it can and can’t do. Wiring diagrams are generic at best. I think OEM would be better if you only work on a few brands. If you need to cover many brands that would be kind of costly so youmay be better off with Jaltest.
I’m not sure either. Once it gets back to the shop I’m going to look into the electrical part of it to see if that is all working.
I think all the changes are made in the cab on the display and on the right console. I’m not sure on the flow rate. A hammer would use more flow than a thumb right? I think I need to see if the electrical side of it is working right on the switch on the right console.
Voltage will not rise higher than it’s source. The alternator is the only thing that can raise voltage above the battery voltage ( 12.66V fully charged). Have you checked the voltage yet at the battery, and at the alternator with it running? Make sure the connections on the battery, and alternator are good and no corrosion. Also make sure the grounds from the battery to the engine and to the frame are good. Take them all off and clean them until they are shiny and bright. One thing that can happen is if there is corrosion in the circuit to the alternator it can think that the battery voltage is less than it really is and thus end up over charging the battery. The alternator itself could also be bad. Need to check some voltages to know what is going on. Be patient, Nige will be along with more detailed instructions…
I just want to give an update on how this one turned out. I was not able to code the injector so I had a friend that has ET come out and do it for me. None of the CAN Buss data codes ever came back. Hopefully that will be ok. In the process of trying to get it to regen. it went into the highest derate level showing code 3701-1 DPF Statis High – Most Severe. From what I found the only way to get it out of that is to have the DPF cleaned. I cleaned the DPF, reset the soot load, and reset the DPF regen. counter. The status said that a regen was not needed. It now has no active or stored events or diagnostics. Removing the DPF to get cleaned is a BIG job. Thanks for the help guys!
Is that a plug in the middle of the hub that can be taken out with a allen socket, that would a have a pin behind it that can be pushed in or allowed to pop out an release the hub?
I have never worked on one of those. If water was getting into the fuse box, I would really spend some time looking at that. I don’t know what it is like at all since I have not worked on one. Look at the back side of it to. There may be a wire broken or corroded off. The wires they use on this newer stuff are so much smaller than they use to be. Also need to do some voltage checks at the fuse box to see that you’re getting good power there when you turn some loads on. Next would be to check some safeties like seat bar/belt, cab door. I have never worked on one, but that would be how I would approach it if it was in my shop.
