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I think what Nige is referring to is rust/corrosion from condensation just from temperature changes all those years. Say in a basic transmission if it sets a long time the oil can all drip off the parts that are out of oil and they can start to rust from condensation. That may not cause much problems in a basic transmission but in a system with hydraulics, it can start sending junk through the system and the problems may not show up right away. Another thing that can happen is water can loosen the bonding on some brake or clutch disc and cause them to start coming apart sending all kinds of things through the system. Normal use came keep alot of that evaporated off but long periods of setting can cause the moisture load to become to high. I wonder if this would be better to look at as an opportunity for a good use parts machine rather than something to put into service. All the good parts on it would not have any hours on them.
A lot of variables and unknowns with this one. I would try to find out all you could from the people that get it going. How long was it flooded? How high did it get? What did they drain out of it? What did it look like? How much did they run it? Did everything work fine then? Why has a machine like that then set for 20 years? Out side the whole time? You could try taking some connectors apart if they will let you and see what they look like. Alot can be forgotten in 20 years. Also have to decide if they are telling you all the truth.
No, I have not set pressure or flow. I’m not sure how to do that or what they should be. I think someone told me pressure should be around 2200 PSI. I don’t know if the thumb will bring it out of idle, but I am thinking it doesn’t. It’s not at the shop right now.
I question the safety of some of that. I was reading in a magazine about a company looking into using gestures to activate some functions. What if you stop to answer a phone call and you are talking and making motions and it turns on a function you did not intend to turn on? What if there are people close when that happens?
The positive battery cable should hook to the solenoid. The post that is farther away from the starter. The ground cable usually hooks to the back of the starter on that rusty nut. Clean that up good o that you are getting a good connection.
Ya, sorry I derailed it. The small jump pack I use is a MAC. I think the same as a JNC. It works ok if I keep it charged up. Thought about getting a NOCO one and trying that. It may have more power than the MAC but not a pricey as the Goodall.
I have that much in it without counting much time to build it. The poor man’s version of a engine driven Goodall jumpstarter.
I have thought about making another one that is smaller/lighter. I tend to overbuild things and it is heavy. I would probably use lighter steel in some areas, maybe smaller wheels, stay with same size engine and alternator, but maybe one less battery. Some people say,” you should put a semi alternator on it”. Why, I’ve never ran the batteries anywhere close to died and then I would have to use a bigger engine. I may unhook one battery for a while and see how it does. It is heavy enough that I can’t load it up ramps without help and it would be nice if it was lighter for when I take it away from the shop. What do you guys think? One thing that would be nice to add to it would be some of the products from Polar Wire. I saw a link on here somewhere for one of you guys in the northwest. Looks like they have some good products, bigger cable, better clamps ect. Not sure what shipping would be though.
Alot of good advice in the last several post. If there is one thing that working on electrical systems will do, is it will keep you humble or make you go nuts. About the time you start to be too confident and assuming things, it will throw you a real curve ball that you have never seen before. Diagnose with confidence but don’t skip steps. “Looks good” is not checking. Taking readings with a VOM is getting data and will tell you go or no go. Some thoughts on using ohms readings. Ohms readings are mostly just good for testing a part on the bench that is removed from the machine. The VOM does not put out enough voltage to see if a circuit can carry much of a load. If the circuit you are checking ohms on is not isolated you can become really confused. They say,” electricity takes the path of least resistance”. I think it is more accurate to say, most of the electricity takes the path of least resistance. Most of the test you do on equipment is, voltage, voltage drop, and load testing. Sometimes you need to check amps and ohms.
