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I don’t think it was setting the code while it was cranking. That was an inactive code from when it was running before. Now that I am working on it, I have not got it to start yet. Too cold and don’t like to use either on it. I was just observing some of this while someone else was messing with it, and now it is my job to fix it. I have some rail caps ordered but it will be a couple of days before they get here. Can you explain more about the cold weather bypass valve? I know where it is, and what it looks like, but would like to know how it functions.
I am using a Jaltest diagnostic tool. I should be able to read fuel rail pressure with it. I’ll check that when I get it running. Do you know the range it should be in?
Sounds like that would be the best thing to do. It very likely is a fault in the harness from the ground control up to the basket. Could be in the harness or at a plug. Wires can brake inside the harness without seeing damage on the outside.
I have gotten some things from this place. Good people to deal with. I don’t think they are a Bobcat dealer, but they have used parts. They part out machines.
That’s good to help a guy out. Hopefully these guys can get you going! Get a picture of the serial number to.
What machine is this in? Maybe you could post some pictures of the engine and pump. That would be helpful.
If all the functions work from the ground, that tells me it is an electrical problem. If it only works for 7 seconds, I would suspect problems with the foot peddle. Maybe not problems with the peddle itself, but with the wiring to or from it. Check the output of the functions that do not work at their switches. If the switches have output, than start following it down until output stops and hopefully you find the problem. If there is output from the switches at first, but then it stops, there is likely a problem with the enable circuit/foot peddle. Make sure it’s output is not going away after a little.
Yes, 6 cylinders running at higher RPMs is more noise. Like I said at the beginning, I have not had to send all day in a machine with one in it. I can see how day after day in a machine that had a noise to torque ratio that was not equal could drive a guy mad.
I think you’re about always better off using OEM electrical parts. Even though some are very expensive they will cost you less in the long run. Like buy a aftermarket, it fails shortly, then you have to replace it again, and you end up getting the OEM anyway. I’ve been burnt like that to. Anymore I just swallow hard and get OEM.
